Alan Cassidy (& others) Climbing

Spanish Reflection: New Objectives

2012-01-29T23:30:00.002Z

My recent trip to El Chorro was both my last trip of 2011 and first of 2012. It was a time to reflect upon both what I had achieved in climbing 2011 and a measure of where I was as we set off into 2012.

What to try at Loja? A day out at a new crag (to which I must return) with amazing tufa 8's... Heaven!

At almost the very same time of year in 2010 I had had my best short trip ever; a good wedge of 8s, my first 8b onsight (though I suppose it may be 8a+?) and an 8c in a day (though I suppose it may be 8b+?). One year later and despite having climbed my first 8c+ in the summer, I had lost a lot! Some pills are bitter to swallow and as a climber who is always searching for that ever harder tick, to seem to have got worse is depressing to say the least.

The Chorro 2011 team carb-loading on traditional Spanish fare.

To feel like I was going in to a new year, in which I had been hoping to exceed my limits, having taken many steps backwards hit me like a tonne of bricks. My resolve is weakened easily (an admission of frailty perhaps) and it was a tough corner that had to be turned to pick myself out from the "what is the point" moment. But, a couple of days back in TCA and I realised that with this kind of facility at my finger tips all is not lost, indeed I am in the perfect position to exceed my personal expectations.

All I needed to do was to step back, analyse my present situation, challenge the status quo a little and push myself outwith my comfort zone.

Maybe the dream catcher will help.

Step 1: analysing what has changed.

Though I had started work at a top training venue I was putting in long work hours and not actually training to the same volume as I had been previously been used to. The increase in short boulder sessions over long volume, and almost no running, coupled perhaps with a change in dietary content, had meant that I had gained almost and a stone and a half in weight. My father was a great rugby player and I have inherited a propensity to "bulk up". Such genes are a curse in this gravity dictated sport. Lastly, I had not done nearly enough ROCK climbing in the whole of 2011.

Step 2: doing something about it.

The long hours are petering out as TCA takes off, so turning around the training volume is not going to be too hard. Planning sessions out and sticking to the plan will make the sessions more time effective. Though it will upset my fiance and mother (the only readers of this blog?) to hear it, I need to lose some bulk to get that next grade. I am not anorexic, I do not think I am fat, I am not. I am just not the right shape for what I want to do. Lastly, I need to do more ROCK climbing.

If I can get on top of these things then I might just about climb another 8c+. I might climb 9a! I might do neither of these things. I will however be happier knowing I have tried to achieve my dreams rather than giving up on them because they were hard.

I might even boulder a real 7B+, in Font!

The limit of human possibility; Rubis Sur L'Ongle 7B+

The Long Hope

2011-12-25T12:18:00.000Z

We are settled in for Christmas Day in the Cassidy household and rather than watching the usual Christmas trash it was time to finally watch Hot Aches Productions Long Hope Route on download.

I have to say that I honestly haven't seen such a nice climbing film in years, if not ever. The history of the climb comes to life with the inimitable and eminently likeable Ed Drummond's, poetry and sheer presence. The scale and unlikely nature of the climb is as awe inspiring as the fulmar's are off putting and Dave's ascent is another epic monument to his single handed mission to make the traditional climbing of Scotland some of the most significant and difficult in the world. Well done to all involved.

Watch it!

Often when you watch a climbing movie on a dreich Scottish winter day there is only frustration at the end of it as the next day on rock seems an eternity away. Not for me this time. Boxing Day see's my second Christmas trip to El Chorro in as many years.

I'm totally inspired for that, and 2012 in general.

Training, Bouldering & The Brin Rock Fan Club

2011-11-16T18:51:00.001Z

TCA Glasgow has opened its doors and my new lifestyle as the Assistant Manager of an immense bouldering centre is starting to sink in. After nearly 3 manic months of late nights and last minute preparations it is a relief to finally be able to start to focus back in on my own climbing as I find myself with some spare time and weekends once again.

I have embarked upon a phase of training focussed in on being on form for a 1 week trip to southern Spain over the New Year. It is nice to have a clear goal to work towards. I have always wanted to be able to follow a truly structured training schedule but never had the time, will power or training resource there to fully explore what working to a plan can do. Well TCA has everything I need and so there are now no excuses.

TCA Glasgow - My own training Mecca (Paul Twomey)

The first phase of training has been to learn to boulder again. It has been a while since I have actually focussed on pulling hard over a short number of moves and it has never been something I have excelled at. Short on weeks to dedicate to this strength phase of training, improvements are hard to measure but the holds on Gary Vincent's white circuit seem less far a part than they did at the start of the the 3 weeks I have dedicated to purely bouldering.

Scotland has been blessed by 2 weeks of settled Autumnal weather and this has allowed for a couple of opportunities to try out the bouldering strength on a few real rocks. Whilst nothing to write home about for your average boulderer, I was pleased to squeeze in a couple of 7Cs in two idyllic locations, in between an engagement party (mine) and a family birthday.

The superlative Put My New Shoes On, 7C, in the last light of a perfect Autumnal day at Brin Rock (Helen Black)

It would be great to think that these conditions will last all winter but I somewhat doubt that. But if they do I will be keen to return to both Glen Nevis and Brin Rock, the scene of these two most recent sends to try and bag some of the hard test pieces that they have to offer. And there is always Dumby.

Brin, the poor man's Magic Wood. Gneiss boulders, moss and a beautiful setting make for a top class venue (Helen Black)

The training phase has now changed and so commences 6 weeks of power endurance focussed training. I was in the shape of my life for last Christmas' trip and I would love to be in the position to replicate those ascents this time round.

More proof Brin is where it's at (Helen Black)

So for now its circuits, circuits, circuits and fingers crossed for dry weekends bouldering.

Exciting Times, Milestones, Climbing?

2011-10-14T21:48:00.001+01:00

It still feels like I haven't really been climbing in months in spite of my recent trip to France. If there is one thing I miss about Spain it has to be the reliability of climbing outside on amazing routes every week. At the time it felt like the climbing was snatched in amongst 6 days of weird working hours, but now it seems all so simple.

BUT I can't complain, my business has mostly been down to getting the finishing touches to TCA Glasgow completed and with that comes a training den to die for and more climbing than you can shake a stick at, so I will be back on form before long I am sure.

I was approached a few weeks ago by Triple Echo Productions, the people behind the BBC's Live Climb and The Adventure Show, with an offer of an exciting opportunity to put up a couple of unusual routes underground (!) in Yorkshire and the Peak. It sounded fun and a great opportunity to climb with Dave Macleod. The whole experience was enjoyable from start to finish and I hope to have some photos to share with you soon. The date for broadcast is likely to be some time in March as an Adventure Show Special.

In a similar vein I was asked to present the Metalcore 8c+ video, (see my video page) at the Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival. Despite being blinded by the bright lights I managed to control my nerves and I think the audience all appreciated the quality of Matt's work.

All this and a 3 week cold has provided a less than perfect lead in to the BLCC at Ratho this weekend. That is my excuse blogged and entered in advance in case anyone wonders why I fall off the first qualifier miserably at the 4th bolt.

See you all at TCA soon I hope!

French Medicine

2011-10-02T14:22:00.000+01:00

I suppose I knew I wasn't in the best form ever before I went to France, having hardly done much rock climbing in the last couple of months, but it was exactly what I needed to give me a kick up the backside, take some medicine and get me motivated for a winter of training in TCA Glasgow.

Having eluded already to the fact the daunting prospect of taking on a 9a is now entering my head I admit that this trip partially had the motivation of actually getting on one to see how far off that mark I actually am. In this regard the trip was an abject failure. I had wanted in particular to try a route put up by the French equipper extraordinaire, Bruno Clément and first climbed by Adam Ondra; PPP in the Verdon gorge. Unfortunately access to this route is extremely sensitive and requires accessing the cave by boat and breaking a host of by-laws in the process. Not wanting to step on too many toes on a busy afternoon in the gorge it didn't seem appropriate to go try this route until I clarify what the access rules are. We did however hire a pedalo to go take a look and it is safe to say the thing was pretty mind blowing.

PPP climbs out the enormous left cave, the scale of which is hardly done justice in this photograph (Photo: Helen Black)

Day dreaming about climbing 9a from the luxury of the Pedalo (Photo: Helen Black)

I didn't need to get on a 9a however to realise that a lot of hard training effort will be required for me to get one done. I say this having tried and narrowly failed to climb an 8b+ in any kind of reasonable time and generally struggling on the harder routes. Temperatures were high and I have that as some kind of excuse, but given I am aspiring to the next number grade I really should be close to on-sighting at this level and certainly making ascents in a few goes. Normally this kind of realisation might defeat me but I think having TCA at my finger tips has given me the belief that I can still turn things around.

The TCA circuits board, as good as anywhere to train for 9a

A couple of major milestones were reached on this trip. I did my first route in the Verdon with Helen (my now fiancé!) which is the most stunning place and somewhere I have wanted to climb for years. I surpassed the milestone that is my 200th grade 8 route, onsighting a few fantastic 8a's in the process, including 2 of Gorges du Loup's best, Diplodocus and Deversé Satanique. I also got very inspired by a 9a put up by Alex Chabot in the Gorges du Loup, Abysse which, at a crag marred slightly by chipping, is an inspirational natural line up 1 single tufa. And, being a lover of tufas, got me thinking...

3 of my 200+ grade 8a routes, all 3 star routes and featuring my favourite thing, tufas (Photos: Helen Black)

Now we're back my mind is switching to the hard training required and the most awesome training centre in the UK in which to do so.

Vive La France

2011-09-15T23:23:00.000+01:00

It seems a long time ago now but I lived in Lyon, France for a year in 2003. It is there that I really got to grips with sport climbing, improving from having done one 8a to many thanks to an inspirational group of friends; Nicholas Ecoffet, Arthur Lespagnol, Johann Guillaume and the rest encouraged me and showed me what was possible. We dossed under the crags on our budget weekends to the crags of Provence, made a trip to Magic Wood before it was famous and had great laughs along the way. It seems apt that I am returning to the South of France as I embark on my next stage on the journey of improvement. What will it take to climb 9a? I am keen to, and going to find out. I will keep you posted on how it goes... stage 1 commences on Saturday.

The Climbing Academy

2011-08-31T18:37:00.001+01:00

Since Metalcore I haven't had a lot of time for my own personal climbing what with starting my new role as assistant manger at TCA Glasgow and all that involves. The great thing for me is that I am going to be working in one of the greatest training facilities anywhere and I see no reason not to push things on to the next level of difficulty and commitment. For now we just need to get the wall finished but when it is the long term search for 9a strength and fitness can begin. Sounds like an exciting adventure.

To give you a taste for TCA, Jen Randall has produced this fantastic little clip with a few very familiar faces in it.

The Climbing Academy Glasgow from Posing Productions on Vimeo.

Metalcore Video

2011-08-05T09:58:00.000+01:00

As I mentioned in my previous post, Matt Pycroft was at the Anvil with me for the succesful ascent of Metalcore and has come up trumps with the final edit. I think Matt is going to go far, I hope you'll agree. ENJOY.

Matt Pycroft Media Presents: Metalcore 8c+

Metalcore

2011-07-28T22:55:00.001+01:00

I’m a bit flabbergasted at how the last week and a half has gone. It started the weekend before last with a fantastic 3 day weekend in the Highlands, climbing plans abandoned thanks to the unreliable forecast. Instead we ventured off in search of a living legend by the name of Frank, raconteur extraordinaire, welcoming host and keeper of the bothy at Tarbet on Loch Nevis.

Frank recounting his wild days! (Photo: Helen Black)

If I can be as animated, alive and kicking in my 80s, I will be a happy man indeed. Helen tells the story beautifully on her blog. High on life from meeting such a man and after a little life affirming fresh water swimming I felt revitalised for the week ahead and a rematch with the bugbear that is Metalcore. I had restarted earlier this month my account after a month of successful weekend raids to Yorkshire. I found myself a new convert in the form of Mark McQuade who was looking for something different to do while patiently waiting for winter. The boy has a big project of his own.

A rock athlete needs his ice bath (Photo: Helen Black)

After 2 visits I found myself back to where I was last October when the weather stopped play. Falling at the penultimate bolt, the sting in the tail, which I know saw to Dave a few times when he put the route up. At least I was in good company falling there.

Mid-week I was invited to take another look at TCA Glasgow. I was blown away by the progress and the scale of the place, oh and the possibility of becoming assistant manager. In fact I didn’t manage to sleep on it before writing my acceptance. I literally cannot wait to get in there!

Training for Santa Linya in this corner (Photo: Paul Twomey/TCA)

I pencilled in the weekend for the next bout at the Anvil, seeing life with a real positive bent after meeting Frank, swimming in the sea, scoring a job at the future coolest wall in the UK and discovering that when you go to the UK mainland’s most westerly point you find like-minded people.

Ardnamurchan Lighthouse Saintees! (Photo: Helen Black)

I arranged a date with Matt Pycroft fresh off the back of filming the MacLeod machine on his latest scary epic. What I had to offer was a lot tamer but he seemed just as psyched to get something in the can. Unlike Dave, I had a lot of self-doubt that I could actually produce the goods while the camera was rolling. Sure enough 5 redpoints on Saturday before the sweltering heat became too much saw me unable to nail the bottom crux move. I was miffed, I was doing the move in isolation better than ever and linking it to the top, yet it eluded me from the ground. Perhaps the pressure of wanting to do it while Matt was there to provide the evidence was getting to me.

Trying hard to stay warm and stay on last October (Screen grab: Matt Pycroft Media)

Unable to find a belay for the Sunday, I really didn’t think it would happen for yet another few weeks. What a delight to roll over in bed and check the time on my phone, at 2 am as it happens, and see a text from Mikey Jeans. He was ready to push his belaying to the next grade.

Mikey Jeans, one of Scotland's greatest belaying talents (Screen Grab: Matt Pycroft Media)

And he did. One more go was all it took. The route felt fine, not easy, not hard, but within me. I think that was a satisfying conclusion. To have invested the effort, to climb the route well and get it all on film to boot, seemed like a dream. I await the footage with excitement but my mind is already turning to what is next. Once is never enough.

Chilling on the rest before the heartbreaker sequence (Photo: Dan Walker)

What is Yorkshire? The Final Chapter?

2011-07-08T20:22:00.000+01:00

I mentioned in my last blog post that I had started trying Progress at Kilnsey and that Chris Savage had just climbed the route. Well now there is a video and I'm even more dismayed at how easy he makes it all look! I'm going to mumble something about it being easy if you're tall, skinny, southern, got a new born baby.... aye OK, basically he's just pretty good. If you want to know how I don't look on this route, try this video for size:

Yorkshire love doesn't stop at making regular visits to the furthest county you can get from Scotland before feeling out of place. Yorkshire has also had a massive impact in climbing closer to home. When Yorkshire comes to Scotland, you know about it!

Will puts his tiny arms to good effect at Kilnsey (Photo: Dan Walker)

A few years ago now a very tall man, with a cheeky grin and strong fingers appeared in the basement of Glasgow Climbing Centre and started flashing everything. He then went out to Dumbarton and made the place his own in a way nobody else has since King Dave left for pastures new (apart from Malcolm of course). That man is Will Atkinson, top geezer, sometimes an affront to the senses, always a laugh and always 6 inches stronger than me. The impact Will has had on Dumbarton climbing extends beyond the surprisingly large number of first ascents he was able to bag in his time in Glasgow. Will's legacy will be the surge of collective psyche he brought to the Dumbarton scene. A lot of people lost their usual antipathy towards the place thanks to his enthusiasm.

Will's toughest Dumby addition - a testament to the man - Mr Tickle Extension 8a+ (FA) from Will Atkinson on Vimeo.

Despite sounding a bit like an obituary, Will is not dead, just moving back to the white rose county. As a mark of respect to the man the myth (and with a nod to a Limmy sketch) , Glasgow threw a Yorkshire themed party. It was a "reyt" success, there was real ale, a whippet and 4 Glasgow neds just to remind us where we were. Good times. Big Willy, we salute you!

Squint and you'd think it was a nightclub in Leeds

A ned and a Yorkshireman share the decks - Dropping 100% Motown bombs

What is Yorkshire? (Part 2)

2011-07-01T18:20:00.000+01:00

Yorkshire is more than Malham and Kilnsey....

Stu Cobra Lyall Cruisin For A Bruisin 7b (Photo: Dan Walker)

Pushing yourself on hard projects is great but for the tick-aholic there is nothing better than turning up at a new crag and getting stuff done. With the pressure off after completing True North and the so called summer still not happening trips to the Yorkshire limestone continue to seem like one of the most likely ways to climb dry rock of a weekend.

Possible kneebar, Love Sculpture (Photo: Dan Walker)

A Glaswegian raiding party was assembled and set off down the all too familiar M74 with big plans for success. Modern fuel prices make every tick that little more expensive and adds an extra reason to get the most out of every weekend trip.

Going through the sequence before the redpoint of Pegged Out (Photo: Dan Walker)

Having a sunny Saturday forecast and sensing it to be dry down there, we agreed to check out Yew Cogar for a day of something different. Having never been before I was keen to see how a Yorkshire tufa measured up and while this is no Rodellar or Kalymnos, the rock at the right hand end of the crag reminded me (minus the humungous cave and 20m of extra length) of La Balme de Yenne, my most local quality crag when I was based in Lyon. The prickly tufas of Cruisin for a Bruisin and Vorsprung Durch Technique were great fun to climb despite being over all too soon.

Biceps Guy 2.0 on Vorsprung Durch Tecnik 7c+ (Photo: Dan Walker)

Despite the odd frustration a great day was had away from the crowds. We were joined by a certain Mr McHaffie who was fantastic to watch in action. I could really do with a dose of Caf staying power and tenacity the next time I don my trad rack - impressive stuff.

Reviewing the sequence after the redpoint of Pegged Out - a lot more sketchy! (Photo: Dan Walker)

I was quite pleased with my own day mind you, drawing 2 routes closer to another major milestone, my 200th grade 8. No doubt I would have reached that number last year had I not returned from Spain, the gross slow down in my 8 ticking rate reminds me of how difficult it is to get sport climbing volume in the UK in general and in Scotland in particular, especially if you can’t afford or don’t have the time for a lot of foreign holidays.

It's down there somewhere! (Photo: Dan Walker)

Not put off by the trudge out, a return visit will definitely be on the cards. I’d love to lay claim to the quair of Vickers' routes, though from what I have heard the 8a and the 8b+ might not give themselves up as easily as Pegged Out and Love Sculpture.

Kilnsey Crag - ahhhhhhhh! (Photo: Dan Walker)

A rainy Sunday forecast provided a good excuse for a return to Kilnsey in search of the next big personal project. I really feel it’s time to raise my game after building a good base of 8c’s now. Although I was so close to Metalcore last year, the UK weather and my previous experience with True North has led me to believe that it is worth having a few project options at any one time if you want to be guaranteed a big tick or two in any one year. (The other alternative being giving up your job, but I still haven’t got that one sussed).

Chris Savage who has been crushing his way through the Yorkshire limestone was happy to give away all the crucial beta on Progress which was an important head start. Chris has now dispatched the route in impressive time. Nice one Chris. Watching him on it made me wince at how weak my fingers are in comparison as he chalked up on the little crimps from which the the 3rd clip is clipped. The fact I can’t take a hand off at this point gave me a clear indication of the training I need to do to get this route done either crimp like a disease or embrace the ground fall and keep climbing…. what a choice!

What is Yorkshire? (Part 1)

2011-06-16T22:39:00.000+01:00

....Yorkshire is a state of mind.

Once upon a time in Yorkshire, this blogger, Robin Sutton and Malcolm Smith decided to try a route on the North Buttress of Kilnsey. That route was True North and is graded the magical grade of 8c. The hardest grade imaginable in 1990. The grade of Agincourt, the grade on the poster above my bed, the one in place of the football line-ups that decorated the walls of my mate's rooms. The thing that made me different. A bit of rock, with a number. Massive moves on holds for only one finger, a million miles from the routes my Dad was taking me up at Polney crag every weekend. How exciting to finally think I too could be like Ben Moon.

Malcolm sent the route, no surprises there, with the efficiency expected of an international rock star. Rob and I needed more time. We didn't lack commitment. M8, M74, M6, A65... up and down, up and down. Round and round the Glasgow 45 board, 40 move circuits midweek. We got fit. We each came within a move. Next time we reasoned. M8, M74, M6, A65... WETNESS! Weeks of wetness, months of wetness, years of wetness. I gave up. Rob had 2 kids. I moved to Spain, climbed 8c, knowing I could thanks to True North, but it was always there needing finished.

My younger self trying True North in 2007 (Photo Copyright: Pete O'Donovan)

Fast forward to 2011 and it was time for Rob and I to take up the gauntlet again. We booked some days of work, committed ourselves and got it done. Rob, requiring a fair few goes less than I, showed just what a beast he is. Inspired I pulled my finger out and got it done in less than perfect conditions, drying holds before attempts and getting resourceful in my hold drying methods (I might be looking for a tampon sponsor).

True North is now my 6th (or 7th) route graded 8c and I think it fits in quite neatly among routes like Rollito-Sharma Extension in terms of difficulty (i.e. low/mid 8c). It is far from horrendous move by move but a pumpy power endurance test when summed together. Having ticked True North I got thinking about Unjustified again. I think Adam Ondra eluded clearly to his opinion about the grade when he commented on Bat Route and he isn't alone in thinking the route is soft. I knew at the time I did it that it all went too easy to be 8c given my form at the time and True North, by no means a hard 8c confirms it; Unjustified is a good grade easier. If Cry Freedom remains at 8b+ then even that grade may seem a bit much.

The glory move to the final jugs leading in to Urgent Action (Photo copyright Pete O'Donovan)

So there we go, somebody has done it, stepped up to take the flack and (with no malice intended) shatter a few egoes. Maybe I'm wrong and it sure as hell doesn't matter one bit. It is still a fantastic climb and still just a bit of rock with an arbitary and subjective number attached to it just like True North, just like Agincourt...

Back to Old Habits

2011-05-14T09:35:00.001+01:00

Well done William!

I think it is safe to say that Will Atkinson has done a lot for climbing at Dumbarton in the time he has been living up here. Numerous new problems, repeating everything, keeping the faith and inspiring others to push themselves to try harder things. He has now capped that all off with a ground-up ascent of Requiem. I hope this will inspire others to go enjoy one of the best pieces of trad climbing anywhere, a route with real international importance and put up by an all time legend, Dave Cuthbertson.

Will attempting Requiem (Photo: David Brigham)

On the same night I managed to find a spoiler sequence which got me up Thoroughbred which is the latest trendy tick now that almost everyone has done Sabotage. My Spanish route beast beta, might drop the grade a bit though.

Otherwise Scotland is back to normal. Showers, sunshine, torrential rain, wind, hail, snow, midges, humidity. Such a dissapontment after a month of amazing rock climbing opportunities. I tried to go do Metalcore last weekend, cycling in with the intentions of a sustained bout to finally kill this thing off, only to be dissapointed to find the whole crag covered in a film of condensation. I then wrote the rest of the weekend off with too much beer!

With squally showers forecast there isn't much hope of Metalcore action this week either. Frustration! At least it gives me some more time to get in to shape. My internal dialogue is a real battle at the moment between the half that wants to knuckle down and get serious about athletic discipline and the hedonistic side which wants to spoil it all. I think it's time for an ultimatum - "no fun 'til the routes are done".

Sun, Sea & Sand

2011-05-06T21:24:00.000+01:00

Late me take you on a journey through time and space... to the world of the Mighty North West

Seeing to the sausages as the sun sets over Gruinard bay (Photo: Dan Walker)

It really has been a busy last 3 weeks. I have hardly found time to sit down and write a post between trips northwards. The stable weather, Easter bank holiday and royal wedding, seemed to coincide perfectly to allow midge free climbing in the North West which, in the kind of weather we have had, seems more like a desert Caribbean island than the usual damp and dreary west of Scotland we often have to put up with.

Rob Sutton and Dan Walker deploying the big guns to rapidly send Stolen 8b (Photo: Dan Walker coll)

The first trip north was a weekend with Rob Sutton, Tony Stone and Dan Walker in Glen Nevis. The focus was Steall Hut on the first day with Rob coming within a cat's whisker of sending a damp Stolen, a contender for the UKs best 8b. For my part I was battling with Scotland's answer to Magnetic Fields at Malham, The Gurrie, a new, bouldery, 8a+ and not succeeding; a bump back to Earth after the previous weekend.

Eventually sticking the crux of The Gurrie, 8a+ (Photo: Dan Walker)

We then headed up to Sky Pilot on the Sunday, where I managed to finish off Beatleback ,7C and a couple of other thing and introduced Dan and Rob to one of Scotland's better bouldering spots. We were treated to a display of power by Mr Macleod in the evening, trying his project that was to become 7 of 9, 8B+. The latter problem looks amazing; I'd love to try it. Guess I'll just have to get a damn sight stronger!

Last hard move of Beatleback (Photo: Dan Walker)

The next weekend was a real breath of fresh air and at times a real scorcher! Returning, to Steall with Dan and Rob on the Friday, we all managed to dispense with our respective projects and Stolen had another 2 votes behind its 4* status.

Tog Balla at Am Fasgadh, Limestone never looked so Gneiss! (Photo: Will Atkinson)

It was then to Am Fasgadh and Goat Crag for some Gneiss, sport climbing. Amazing rock, wide open spaces, silver sands, and a brace of high quality routes up to 7c+ make these crags in Gruinard a new addition to my top ten favourite UK climbing locations. In fact it was so good we went back for a day the next weekend en route to Torridon. Props to the locals for all their hard efforts in creating these venues, not least Paul Tattersal.

Who need's Ryanair for bolts and beaches! (Photo: Will Atkinson)

The route highlights for me being the trio of Am Fasgadh 7c's - Black Sox, Primo and Tog Balla, the stunning Goat Crag Prow 7c+ and MacTalla, possibly the best 7a+ I have ever done (!), certainly in the UK if not anywhere. On the return visit, this most recent weekend I even got my wires out and enjoyed myself of Twilo Thunder, which comes in at a very friendly E6.

The final piece of the North West odyssey was a trip to Torridon, which already has a justifiably large fan club to which I will now be subscribing. I was accompanied by Dan again, Mikey Jeans and Lukasz Warzecha, who was keen to get photos. Lukasz was truly in luck. The clear starry sky’s would have been a delight in themselves, but the drama of Torridon going up in flames meant he got some truly jaw dropping shots, some of which can be seen on his blog so be sure to check them out. Take note of the one taken as we packed up out tents at 3am when the fire brigade decided it was time to evacuate the campsite!

My phone struggled to handle the shear scale of what unfolded in Torridon: the fires chasing up the hill after midnight.

Sadly the fire tore through the Celtic Jumble, creating an almost lunar landscape and making the ship boulder look even more like the Jawa's vehicle in Star Wars. Prior to the fire, the heat of the day meant that hardcore bouldering wasn't on the menu amongst the Celtic Jumble, however in the shade below Seanna Mhellan, Dan and I were both able to appreciate the stunning problem, The Essence, a 7B+ of the highest order of quality. It was a pleasure to repeat it multiple times for the camera.

Up on Seanna Mhellan, the afternoon conditions were not conducive to trying Dave Mac's Kolus which quite frankly looks like the scariest E8 of its type I have ever seen. The crag is like an amplified Stanage, double, or triple the height and with rock of a far superior quality - yes you read that right. We contented ourselves with a fun little E2 and agreed that Kolus would have to be attempted... err... another time!

NOW - It's Metalcore time!!

Jutified & Ancient

2011-04-11T22:33:00.000+01:00

The first 3 months of this year left me feeling out of shape and with reduced confidence in my ability to send hard routes but thankfully I seem to have turned things back around more quickly than I thought I might. 2 weekends ago I had my first trip to Malham in about 2 years and decided to test myself on the UKs most popular 8c, Unjustified. I had tried this route 1 day several years ago and couldn't make head nor tail of the crux move. Thankfully I am a bit stronger these days and after a bit of huffing and puffing it came together quite quickly. But feeling fat and weak compared to where I was in December, psychologically I wasn't ready to put a big effort in for a redpoint that weekend and was happy to come away with an overlapping-in-2-sections link.

On the hottest weekend of the year so far, 2 weeks later, it was back to Malham and a severe test of patience, sitting out a whole day, awaiting the evening's shade, while the rest of the squad were getting stuff done. Luckily being patient paid off this time and I got the route ticked on my 3rd redpoint. Happy days!

Unjustified is a, justifiably popular route and, the UK being the UK, is subject to a lot of controversy regarding grades, down climbs and a whole host of other crap. And that's before we talk about its earlier format as Justified & Ancient. So here is my take on it....

Regarding style of the ascent, I climbed the route clipping every clip (apart from the one I skipped) from the first to the chain inclusive. Many people start with a pre-clip of the chain of the 7b, which Unjustified extends, having down climbed from there. For me this is an old-school and out-dated practice out of keeping with world sport-climbing ethics and completely unnecessary - surely clipping the clips on a 7b isn't that exhausting if you climb 8c. The real issue for me is that doing so amounts to top-roping half the length of the whole route and doesn't equate to a "lead" at all in my mind. I can sense certain people now getting rubbed up the wrong way! I don't want to piss people off in saying this and I have huge respect for everyone I know to have climbed this route, they are all great climbers AND have, as far as I can tell, been honest about their ascents. At the end of a day we climb for ourselves, there is no pay day for climbing this route, just personal satisfaction and we all get that in different ways.

However, it is interesting to take a look at what constitutes a "valid" ascent. I find it unusual that such a practice is even really considered as appropriate here. For me a 1st bolt pre-clip is fair but rarely necessary unless it involves a dangerous start or an impossible clip. It is reasonable to extend these criteria to 2 or possibly 3 clips depending on the bolting etc. Beyond that, for me just isn't cricket... but we all make our own choices.

Another controversy, the chain clip... I would always choose to clip the chains from a hold but many people don't and again this comes down to honesty and your own personal choices. A lot of the time it makes no difference, but sometimes it does. For the record, yes, I grabbed the chain on Raindogs.

Finally the grade...

Because a route is popular does not necessarily mean it is over graded. It is a real shame that people's hard work and achievements are stripped of them because they are not perceived of as being among the "strong". It is this very attitude of giving hard routes too much respect that holds the general level back in this country. I think that on the continent people are more inclined to try harder routes, whether they are a "somebody" or a "nobody" and this drags the whole community along.

On a different note, I tire of hearing how "soft" European routes are compared to here in the UK. There like here there are certain routes that are hard for the grade and certain routes that are easy for the grade. Being my first UK 8c (I have yet to do an 8b+ on UK limestone for that matter) and I can't say where it fits in relative to the rest of the UK's hard routes but comparing with what I have done abroad, Unjustified would be in the bottom end of my personal list of 8c's thus far ticked. I'll reserve any further judgement for now.

The main thing is... it's a great route, justifiably popular and worth a go. Good luck to everyone trying it in 2011 in whatever style they wish.

I was lost, but now I'm found...

2011-03-11T11:42:00.001Z

RIGHT! This late kick start to 2011 is in full swing and I've decided I need to get stronger. I guess this is the usual mindset for most climbers, at least in the UK where strength and bouldering is the thing that seems to get the most interest at the climbing walls and in the media. I'm one of these people who prefers a long duration forearm burn for a workout as opposed to repetitive failing on the same grim desperate move over and over. BUT, you can only get so good ignoring your weaknesses and pure strength is mine. It is clearly time to address this so I can guarantee eeking out an extra grade or two in my route climbing.

Last week there was a strange orb in space with an orangey colour and a pleasant radiance. I saw it a lot when I lived in Spain, seems like I haven't seen it in a while! My climbing spirits have once again been stirred and with the sun out it seemed like as good a time to start the quest for power outside on some rock. I have set myself a goal over the next few weeks of trying to do as many Font 7Cs as possible, weather and skin permitting, to form a basis to move upwards from.

A previous attempt many moons ago - Precious 7c (Photo: John Watson)

Those of you in posession of John Watson's Stone Country guides may be familiar with photos of a problem known as Precious in Glen Croe. This is a brilliant steep prow on good rock (this fact is not done justice in the photos as the wall to the right is somewhat scruffy) which I hadn't ever finished off and seemed like a good place to start. What I thought was going to be a quick send turned out to be a bit of an epic with two lessons learned. 1) Lichenous mica schist boulders, can be very slippy after rain. 2) Take a short rope AND/OR a brush on a stick to clean up said boulders if they haven't seen much traffic. I got the situation sorted on day 2 after spending a first day of hard effort denied by all manner of slips and slides on the finishing moves.

Lovely textured sloper - Precious

A few days later it was a day trip to sunny Kyloe-Out for the in-vogue (among the Scot's anyway) Northern Territory. I had pulled on to this once or twice a few weeks ago without making much effort (I couldn't handle the sub-zero temps) but it felt more or less like a quick 1 session effort, all be it with the advantage of all the beta courtesey of messers McNair, Phillips and Atkinson. Although a guide book 7c+, I'd suggest more likely 7c when you know whats going on. I followed that up with a levelling on the infamous Yorkshireman at Kyloe-In - I simply can't get my massive meat hooks in that top crack. SO SO FRUSTRATING - damned genes!

Nice day in the Northern Territory 7c (Photo: Mikey Jeans)

Oh and I also got to see the beast that is Mark McQuade trying Monk Life, 8b+ - very impressive and makes my quest for a few piddly 7c's seem all rather pathetic!

And finally...

I have been asked by a producer at STV to spread the word about auditions for a new show they are making. Here are the details:

New Series About Scotland's Great Outdoors
We’re casting people for a new documentary series which celebrates Scotland’s great outdoors, especially the Highlands. We’re looking for people who have a strong connection with the great outdoors, especially in areas such as hillwalking, climbing, mountain biking, and so on. Applicants should be extremely outgoing, have an extensive knowledge of the Scottish landscape and feel comfortable on camera.
For more information email derek.stuart@stv.tv

Où est la motivation?

2011-03-04T14:21:00.000Z

Climbing has seemed like the number one thing in my life since a very young age. Motivation always ebbs and flows but I've not known a period of such a dip in motivation in quite some time. The fire that usually burns so furiously in my belly became little more than a few smouldering embers about 3 or 4 days into my January trip to Fontainebleau.

Losing the will... Attempt c100! Magic Bus 7B Photo: Jen Randall

The more I tried to analyse the siruation the worse it got. I'd just achieved a dream PB onsight, busted out one of the most inspiring 8c's I've done to date and I was in one of the World's greatest bouldering areas with a great bunch of people. So what bites? I was dissapointed, yes, to not climb as hard as I had wanted to in Font but there were a number of factors going against top performance on the trip to excuse this (at least a little). My general dissatisfaction ran deeper. I guess that in looking forward, in to 2011 and beyond, I just couldn't see where so many of the other things in life were going and climbing ceased to seem all that important.

You'd think an 8c climber could climb Rubis Sur L'Ongle 7B+ (aye right!) Photo: Tom Mills

I've given a lot to pursuing my goals, yet in a way that is not self sustaining. I gave up the "regular" career path in pursuit of hard climbing, yet not worked hard enough at creating the lifestyle that makes it last. My "ostrich" approach has stretched my grades quite far, but athletically I know I have more in me, (I'm not exactly puritanical when it comes to diet and training). But what hopes of bigger numbers, when you can't pay for the necessary trips or everyday life for that matter?

Success!!! ? 7a Buthiers Photo: Jen Randall

January and February's climbing has just been about "ticking over" because I know I should. I've slipped away a bit, but I needed to. Although I'm still not sure about what I'm working towards beyond Metalcore, the 1st of March has been a milestone to get back on the training bandwagon. Enough pontificating, more action required. There is, afterall, unfinished business at the Anvil!

Gri-Gri 2; Have you got yours?

2011-02-03T19:04:00.000Z

I think I'm not alone in being someone who used to say "Petzl should bring out a smaller Gri-Gri for thin ropes". Well, now they have and its very sleek, light and sexy. The name? Gri-Gri 2 of course!

Crag X have these at a ridiculous cheap, not to be beaten, price of only £60!! You can access this (and many others) fantastic offer through the following link: GRI-GRI 2

I might also add that the original GRI-GRI is selling at bargain basement £43.50 at Crag X too and is still as useful today as it always was, despite the advent of its little brother.

Finally I'd like to draw attention to the availability of the 5.10 Jet7 which I wore extensively and to great effect on my recent trip to Spain. In an age when shoe prices are going through the roof, these are selling at an amazing £56.17! I'll be buying myself a new pair anyway!

"Another Tick in the Book"

2010-12-30T20:31:00.000Z

The Chorro invasion continues...

The Chouchter invasion of Chorro!!!

Ah 15 degrees! - Warming up, for the send (Photo: Sam Walker)

"Another tick in the book" seems to be my catchphrase. As a discerning collector of grade 8 routes, I have to be pleased with a haul of 12 "guidebook" 8s in 14 days away yet I still feel like I should have got more done. Bad weather, rain and high humidity, meant my next 8c project, Que Trabaje Randy, (after Cous Cous) was permanently out of nick. Indeed the clip retreival mission might have been harder than the actual route! With the tufas of Makinodromo sector never drying out, it was a case of making the most of the things that were do-able. Classics like Swimming Through a Shark Attack and its 8b extension, remained possible as long as you disn't mind the odd wet hold and a mid route shower.

Enjoying having survived a Shark Attack 8b (Photo: Ross Henighen)

I felt like I was climbing well, perhaps my best ever and with a few more 8's ticked my mind turned to a lifetime ambition tick of 8b onsight. I had identified a soft-touch target at Chorro that I knew would suit me; fulfilling all my favourite criteria: very, very long (45m at least), tufa-y, blobby and not a hard 8b by all accounts. Though it had a few wet tufas, reading from the ground they didn't seem to interfere too much and happily that turned out to be the case. I wont bore you with the blow by blow account except for recounting the epic I had at the last bolt, thinking it was in the bag only to be faced with a long move off a small slopey crimp. Up-down-up-down I went until finally I was convinced that it was indeed this horrible little thing I had to pull on. Summoning everything I had for one last pull, it was a relief when the next hold turned out to be better than it looked. Job done! El Oraculo in the bag. Maybe it's only 8a+, but it felt like I gave 8b's worth of effort and the mental door has been opened onto doing more in the future. An important big step!

El Camino del Rey (Grade XS 2b?) - A different way to spend Christmas day!

Celebrating with a bit of "Bandaloop dancing" (Photo: Sam Walker)

The rum came out, the dancing began and I don't (want to) remember too much else about that.

Rum is bad news

3 numpties walk-in. (Photo: Sam Walker)

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!

The Return to Spain

2010-12-18T16:14:00.000Z

I'm writing from a bar, cowering away from the dreich grey skys that are beginning to put a dampner (literally) on the spirits which were so high after the first 2, very successful days, in El Chorro. At least the cervezas have been well deserved. I came with 1 objective in mind, to climb Cous Cous a stunning line on the Makinodromo sector which I had eyed up on my last trip here 5 years ago. I never imagined I'd ever be good enough to climb such a route, let alone do it in a day. If I take the guide book grade of 8c, then this is my first 8c "in-a-day" and marks a major milestone in my climbing.

If the rain continues, the digs have a wall we can train on!!

The famous entrance to El Chorro

Whether it's a hard 8b+ or an 8c, doesn't really matter at the end of the day, this is one of the best sport climbs I have done and will be long in the memory.

Not wanting to rest on my laurels I have a new project, Que Trabaje Randy clipped up and worked out for a redpoint attempt after a rest day. I only hope the rain doesn't last too much longer....

Updates - CragX Shop

2010-11-24T18:52:00.000Z

The big news here at Cassidy towers is that the kind people at (the excellently stocked) CragX in Sheffield have kindly offered to team up with me to help me out with some of my hardware needs. You will notice a CragX tab at the top of the page and please click through to check out the great online shop where you will be able to get your hands on the best kit your hard earned sterling can buy! I will also be highlighting any offers and reviewing items available in the shop on the shop page. A big thanks to Iain at CragX for this.

Fighting with Open Your Mind earlier this year (Photo: Dan Walker)

I had bad news relayed to me from my old haunt of Santa Linya. Open Your Mind, the 8c+ I was very close to repeating back in easter has broken and now is much harder. This is a real blow as I had hoped to return for this route in 2011. This route has however lived up to its name and opened my mind to going for projects at grades I never really imagined to be realistic for me. Hopefully, even if I never get this route, there will be other 8c+s out there for me.

As the cold snap sets in, I at least have a trip to El Chorro to look forward to. This trip will be a great opportunity to keep my hand in on the hard rock routes while I patiently wait for another crack at Metalcore in the spring. Normally I go away on short trips hoping for a big haul of routes in the 8a-8a+ range but this time I'm going more with the idea of trying to get a route with a bigger number ticked. I'm not going to make any predictions but I did onsight my first 7b+ in El Chorro, so I have a good history with the place. :-) We shall see...

Julie Pearson on The Silk Purse 7c+ Dunkeld (Photo: Fraser Harle)

Finally, I'd like to highlight another Scottish climber who is really impressing at the moment with her motivation and comittment. Julie Pearson can be regularly seen burning off most of the blokes at Ratho and I have learned that she has recently climbed the quintessential classic of its grade in Scotland, The Silk Purse 7c+, joining the very short list of Scots women to have done so. (I'm not sure whether the list extends beyond the equally impressive Jo George and April Marr). Well done Julie! I'm sure, judging by the way you're climbing, that 8a is just round the corner.

Look Mum I'm in a Video!

2010-11-09T21:26:00.002Z

A little post for the 1/5th of my readership (mum) who isn't also a Facebook friend. Here is a great liitle video (shame about the ugly bloke climbing) made by Mikey Jeans. The video can be watched, by those of you with better video cards than me, in beautiful HD which really shows off what a fantastic day it was and just how nice the rock is at Bowden (although for how long?).

Mikey Jeans - "The Director"

"The Alan Cassidy Show" by Mikey Jeans

In the next few days or so I will be adding a page to this blog completely unrelated to climbing on a topic which is dear to my heart... don't worry it's not politics, religion or football. It's all about biscuits!

News Just In...

2010-11-08T18:24:00.002Z

I've heard word on the grapevine that Gordon Lennox has repeated New Statesman at Ilkley, which is a very inspirational tick. New Statesman has to be one of the best grit lines there is and looks extremely scary. Quality effort! It really is nice to be able to highlight some action coming from the North East scene too. Aberdeen has a number of strong inspiring guys like Lennie, Tim Rankin and Ally Coull who are out there getting it done without all the fanfare. To me it feels like they aren't given the credit they deserve on Scottish Climbs which is a shame as it is the Scottish climbing news site after all. Lennie and Tim have a trad ticklist I'm very envious of and I'm really keen to go check out some of their FA's on the Aberdeen coast and Ally is one of Scotland's most prolific sport climbers, with 8b+ in the bag. So guys I salute you!

Other repeats news, this time in the more familiar Central Belt form, is the 4th ascent of Le Saboteur by Robin Sutton. I have the feeling that this problem will go on to have a flood of ascents this winter just as happened with Sabotage. Deservedly so too, it is a truly fantastic problem.

As for me, the bouldering phase took 2 trips to The County where I ticked a few things and added to my to do list a few more....

Bouldering Inspiration with the Unsung Strongmen...

2010-11-03T20:45:00.000Z

With some sadness I think my chances of 8c+ in 2010 have now washed away. The last visit saw thick mist, run-off water streaming down the face and near on 100% humidty leading to a horrible film of condesation everywhere else. Maybe the weather will turn again, but it's not looking likely. At least I have a big insentive to train this winter. 2011 could be a good year!

For now my attention will be turning to bouldering, trying to get stronger and catch up with Will before his ego runs away with him. ;-) Believe it or not he wasn't happy with this little haul (of which I am very jealous) highlighted in his fantastic new video:

Fontainebleau October 2010 from Will Atkinson on Vimeo.

Inspiration...
Anyway my main motivation to write this week is to highlight some comings and goings in other parts of the Scottish scene (as part of a more regular theme I wish to incorporate into this blog). This time I want to highlight the inspiration I can take from a couple of Scotland's strongest training beasts as I embark on my journey into the strange world of climbing the little rocks.

Gary Vincent and Mark McQuade, 2 guys I have known from a very young age, are well-known for there epic feats of strength in the bouldering wall and in Mark's case in particular the campus board. However, these guys can cut it on the rocks too, with Mark having repeated Dave Macleod's problem Sanction, 8B, among other things and Gary having the world famous Chris Sharma problem The Mandala, 8A+ in his collection.

Gary Vincent on the Mandala V12 (Photo: Vincent Coll.)

They have just returned from a productive trip to Magic Wood and I have been catching up with Mark to find out what went down....

They started their trip like they meant to go on with a day 1 haul, that most people would be satisfied with as trip highlights: both sent Coté De Seshuan 7C+ and Massive Attack 8A (Mark got this 3rd go!) and Gaz also did Supernova 7C (Mark had done this on another trip last year).

2 days later and both boys had done Unendliche Geshicte II (the Never Ending Story part 2) 8A which was sent by Gaz in one session, while Mark had also tried it the previous year. Gaz also did Octopussy 8A in one session a few days later. Mark's best day included an in-an-hour tick of the impressive Sofa Surfer 8A+ (he felt it was more top end 8A) and then Octopussy straight after wards (3rd day of trying it).

But really that was just the warm-up. The guys had their sights set much higher and focused on getting a "big tick" each. Gaz opted for trying One Summer in Paradise 8B, and Mark for Steppenwolf 8B. Mark was frustratingly close to the send on the first day falling off the top sloper 3 times. A feeling I know only too well this month! Gaz came stupidly close to his project too, failing at the final easy move on the problem after seemingly losing his head and using the wrong foot beta. (Is there something in the Scottish water?) Both guys could not have really been any closer to getting their goal problems when heavy rain and snow wrote Magic Wood off.

Nice video by Haroun Souirji showing Zach Lerner on Steppenwolf, Magic Wood

Future plans? Gaz is very psyched to get on Sanction and for Mark, its all about Monk Life, Malc Smith's Kyloe 8B+. Nice one lads!

One day Mark is going to pull Kyloe down with those arms! (Photo: McQuade Coll)

How Close is Close?

2010-10-29T14:23:00.000+01:00

Sometimes in climbing we say we are close to our projects when we do all the moves for the first time. Sometimes it might be a significant back link, overlapping sections or a fall from the last bolt or the last hard move. And sometimes we fall with the last hold in our hands!

Metalcore has now gone beyond the realms of being a possibility into the horrible purgatory of having essentially been done (twice in the same day) but not DONE done. Last Sunday presented me with the ultimate low-humidty, crisp, autumnal, weekend-day that Argyll only throws up once in a blue moon and I was fit and raring to go.

After battling with the cold to get going, the first proper redpoint was amazing, the route never feeling so within my abilities. The disappointment? On the 1st and 3rd redpoints I actually had my hand in the penultimate handhold, with only a step up onto a good foot rail left to do to clinch victory. Yet still I failed to seal the deal. Why?

Firstly, the move is super-tenuous - a slippery heel hook at the limit of its usefullness calls upon all your body tension to stop it ripping out (which was what happened both times). Secondly, I am prone to that last minute rush of blood to the head, over excitement as the goal looms large that strikes many people, in many sports. The composure to see the task through to the end before relaxing is, I've come to realise, one of the biggest factors affecting my performance (or at least getting things done in good time). I wonder what techniques sport's psychology has to combat this....

Dont Celebrate Too Early - Watch more Funny Videos

Bit by bit, day by day... 8c+ in 2010?

2010-10-23T16:30:00.000+01:00

Metalcore... I've gotta do this thing.... I'm getting closer and closer but still no cigar and the Scottish weather window gets tighter and tighter. Please, please, pretty please...

I made the best links ever last weekend but just couldn't quite get the tick (Photo: Murdoch Jamieson)

The new Glasgow strong man Dan Walker sampling the magnificent Spitfire 8a+ (Photo: Murdoch Jamieson)

What happened there then?

2010-10-15T17:15:00.000+01:00

Synopsis of my BLCC´s last weekend: Made final, with 2 top outs. I felt good apart from a lingering cough and cold from too much physical labour in the damp west of Scotland and perhaps in the best form prior to a comp I've ever been in. The final route was exactly what I would have wanted, a pump fest. Half way out the roof I felt amazing, relaxed and confident. Two seconds later, I botched the sequence in a confused panic, an unplanned change to the sequence I had read from the ground. All because one of the holds wasn't as good as I had expected... if only I had gone for it in the pre-planned sequence, the result could have been oh so different. Sob, sob, sob.

My frustration at the result is my own problem though. Massive congratulations must go out to the new generation who showed everyone how it is done: Ed Hamer, Luke Tilley, Jonathan Field, Nathalie Berry and Kitty Wallace - I salute you all. I hope the dire state of senior competitions in Britain doesn't put you off competing.

As for me, and to quote Patxi in the film Progression: "The future will be mine. The future; will be mine!"

Not Enough Hours in the Day

2010-10-09T10:12:00.000+01:00

There aren't enough hours in the day if your not a full-time American rock superstar, but to the detriment of my sleep and blog, I've been all over the place this last month, benefiting from the huge enjoyment climbing has to offer across the disciplines, trad, sport, bouldering and competitions (forget ice, thats just mental).

Having seen the live climb and getting a bee in my bonnet about the "lost generation" comments, Stu and I got ourselves motivated for some big trad and decided to take a look at a crag I have wanted to get to for many years now, Dirc Mhor. And I can't recommend it enough. Fantastic micro-granite in a non-intimidating place makes for a pleasant multi-pitch experience. Too be perfectly honest I'm a bit soft and find multi-pitch climbing a strange juxtaposition of terror and boredom, as pitch after pitch of easy stuff lies between you and getting off the bloody cliff when the crux interests are over. This (probably unfair) opinion of big cliff routes couldn't be further from the truth at Dirc Mhor (its not actualy that big - which probably helps!).

Me below the Bastion at Dirc Mhor - Man With the Child in His Eeyes froms the steep right arete on the left of the face

With plans of cleaning up the three, three-star E5s in one visit, we were building oursleves up for a disappointment, opting to work left to right saw us starting with what turns out to be the hardest of the crags trilogy of classics, The Man With The Child in His Eyes. On the crux pitch I found myself terrified and thinking "this is E6 surely" which I have been reliably told is a common assessment, thank god! When the rope got stuck on the abseil, the big plans were put to rest but a return visit has been pencilled in. My advice to anyone is - get yourselves there, a visit will be well rewarded.

Will Atkinson came close to the 2nd ascent of Malcolm Smith's desperately bouldery The Smiddy 8b+

In only returning to the Anvil project one day per weekend and not every weekend at that, I'm starting to get a little worried that I'm not going to get Metalcore before the 6 months of winter rain kick in. If I believed in such things, I'd think too that there is something conspiring against my aspirations of 8c+ climbing. First holds started breaking on Open Your Mind, now Metalcore too is proving no match for my body mass! Thankfully the damage was repairable and both routes remain high on my agenda, if only the cash and time off were there to go get the sends.

The broken hold, safely caught before it smashed to smithereens...

I never seem to get very far with bouldering bit I do plan on making more of an effort this year, and try and learn a few things from Will, "I eat font 8A for breakfast" Atkinson along the way. So far a few trips to Dumby have yielded a handful of pleasing ticks including the 3rd ascent of Le Saboteur which comes in at 8A+ and the complete trilogy of Will's 7C+ variations on Malky.

Le Saboteur and Glasgow Kiss sends... sorry about the terrible video dimensions and soundtrack - I'm new to this stuff!

A trip with the Sheffield ex-pats (Will and Dan Walker) to Queens Crag gave me a few problems to add to the project list. They didn't stay on Will's ticklist for long though as his video below demonstrates. The one man crush fest rolls on...

Furture Cassidy projects?..Queen Kong and Big Dragon beautifully demo'd by Will (video: Will Atkinson)

The September long weekend and fantastic break in the weather probably was my window to do Metalcore but instead I took a trip up to Reiff with Richard McGhee, who like me has re-found his love for trad climbing. Gritstone has nothing on the Torridonian sandstone of the North West which, though it has similar friction, is much kinder on the skin. Though the climbs are short it is easy to become absorbed in the pure unadulterated fun of the routes, the solitude and the sea air. All the better as well because you can pack a lot in to a day and you'd be unlucky to be queuing for a route. We concentrated our efforts on day 1 at the Leaning Block cliff, where after ticking the classics; The Screamer, E4 6a and The Gift E5 6a, I turned my attention to Gary Latter's Otto E7 6b.

The view from the clifftop

The fantastic wall of The Screamer (chalked), The Gift is the left arete.

Unfortunately I found myself underequipped with cams for this essentially safe but hard E7. Managing to reverse from about half way, I preserved the attempt at the clean ascent for my next visit, hopefully sooner rather than later. Too much wine that night meant that day 2 was a little slow to get started but a great day ticking away at the Seal Song area just gave me the taste for getting back as soon as possible for some harder stuff. I did manage to salvage something relatively hard out of the day, climbing The Mystic which is either the softest E6 6b in the book or a rather cool E5 arete in the grit ilk.

It's the BLCC this weekend at Ratho, a regular fixture in my calendar. For some reason I seem to be one of the few people who really enjoys competitions whether I do well or not. It's a real shame that more people don't enter this comp as potentially it could be a fantastic big event and an opportunity for lots of British climbers to get together, enjoy some cool routes, try hard and talk shop... maybe one day people will get over the "I´m not doing it, I'm not climbing well enough" attitude and just come have a go... FOR FUN!

Mushrooms, the key to Will's powers??

The Wasted Generation

2010-09-02T19:56:00.000+01:00

Since the shoulder has got better I have been training and climbing non-stop. I'm currently overly psyched for everything; training, bouldering (at Dumbarton), competitions (BLCCs soon - everybody enter please!) and yes trad climbing. I was left feeling quite guilty having watched the "Great Climb" on Saturday. As part of the generation "lost" to bouldering and sport routes I suppose I really should have been on a big mountain route on Sunday. BUT NO, I have a score to settle with Metalcore and so I took advantage of the current dry snap to return to my big project (of the moment) reassuring myself that I would cleanse my soul and appease Mr McCallum in the mountains once this route is done... To further confirm to me that I shouldn't have been sport-climbing on such a nice day, when I arrived at the crag, I was faced with a libelous assault on my character...

Message at the bottom of Metalcore, takes one to know one, if you ask me.... Niall!

Anyway, I went with the objective of a smidgen of progress and came away with a link to the last bolt and the feeling that the route is on. Thankfully the Cowal peninsula has been blessed with an unusually stable weather system this week and so I might get a concerted attempt to seal the deal this weekend. Bring it on!

I've also been frequenting Dumbarton a fair bit and finding my motivation for the black Font unusually high. I have been working away at some of Will's latest additions to the Home Rule Boulder bagging the 2nd ascent of Nice and Sleazier and a repeat of Nice and Sleazy both reputedly 7C+ and definitely classics. I also enjoyed Mike Lee's Le Tour de Technique 7B+ and hope to add the Sabotage start to get my first "proper hard" bouldering tick since I did King Kong a few years back. Dumbarton is so popular these days and all the action can be found at the stunning http://www.dumby.info/ website.

Will Atkinson shows how its done on Nice and Sleazier 7c+ first ascent

I'm slowly building upon the content of this blog, for example see the new "Top Tens" page and hopefully make it less of a list of "I did this and that" (sorry I didn't avoid the ego polishing this time round) and more of a climbing fanzine type affair (with a bit of ego polishing in there too). So watch this space!

The Anvil: Back From the Brink

2010-08-26T11:07:00.000+01:00

Back in Scotland, injured, unemployed, miserable, I decided that the blog had to come down. I wanted to hide away for a bit. BUT its back, almost injury free, remotivated and hopefully constantly improving.

After sitting out most of June and July I have started training again, getting outside and importantly getting the trad revival modestly started with some Cambusbarron action. The highlight so far being an ascent of Production Line E6 6c which was also repeated by motivation incarnate, Will Atkinson (more on him later).

I have also made 3 trips out to the Anvil with one thing in mind: getting back on the 8c+ train. I have my sights set on Dave MacLeod's excellent Metalcore which for me is the line of the steep face. Malcolm Smith has been exceptionally busy out here in recent months and the Anvil now boasts another excellent (and likely hard for the grade) 8c+, Blood Diamond and a 9a, Hunger. So, Mr Ondra, there is now enough to make a weekend trip worthwhile!

My first Anvil trip of the season was made with Niall McNair who is on a mission to get all Scotland's 8b's ticked. This is a growing list of esoteric classics and no mean feat to repeat given that some of them are horrificly bouldery, sharp or perma damp. At the Anvil, his first goal was Fire Power which is one of the most utterly desperate 8bs in existence, especially to the reach impaired. This route's crux (a 2 move V10/11) forms the start of Malcolm's 9a and to be honest I think that it would sit quite happily at 8b+. The difficulty is belighed by the light work made of it by Will Atkinson (definitely not reach impaired), who impressively bagged this in a day and captured it nicely on video (which I have pinched).

The desperate Fire Power 8b (Video by: Will Atkinson)

On that first day Metalcore seemed almost impossible, move by move I was struggling. But the intensive traing sessions in between the crag days seem to be paying off. Day 2 with Johnny Stocking trying the route with me, found me find my own alternative sequence for the crux, avoiding the grim toe hook method used by Dave in the next video (heavily endorsed by a certain footwear brand) and the desperate shoulder press method used by Malc. I still felt miles off, but the route was finally in the realms of the possible.

Dave MacLeod on Bodyswerve 8c which forms the main crux of Metalcore (Video by: HotAches)

Yesterday I hit the crag once again, this time with another young whippersnapper, Paul Williamson, and found myself linking into the crux, through the crux to the last bolt (which holds the sting in the tail redpoint crux) and through this. It is quite startling how something can go from a long-term "maybe" to a short-term possibility in so few steps. Very very motivating!

Siurana: End of a Dream!

2010-05-20T14:59:00.001+01:00

The big news from Casa Guiri is Lynne's send of her first 8a. I think it was probablly a real surprise for her that it didn't turn out to be a steep route but the slightly less than vertical Thai Dream in Santa Linya's sector Futbolín. As far as I know this makes her the first Scotswoman to climb 8a and I'm sure this is just the first of many. NICE ONE LYNNE :-)

Lynne Malcolm on another 8a project: Trio Ternura at Santa Linya

The other big news from the "Scots in Spain" was a flash of the same 8a by Ross (Adam Ondra) Kirkland, meaning he joins Paul Williamson in flashing his first 8a: The youth of today! Big up to Ally Swinton too for joing the 8a club with Thai Dream and Primera Linea (Terradets) on consecutive days.

With Rodellar written off due to wetness that would make Scotland look dry, I took off to Margalef with Doug and Andrea (Team Oz). After a narrow miss on the onsight of Sargantana Killer 8a+ I moved on to an 8b that is becoming a bit of a classic; Chupito + Cubato 3 Euros. i sorted the moves and went for a redpoint, fell at the crux and considered another go later in the day. While resting I felt the strangest sensation of my finger filling up with fluid and turning blue! Scary stuff but as it turned out nothing too bad. All the same it made a change of scene desirable.

With Andrea leaving for Oz, Doug and I thought to ourselves, why not try Siurana? The weather being unseasonably cold for May. For me this was to turn into a disaster. To cut a long story short, on my first redpoint run on the absolutely amazing Migranya Profunda 8b+, mid cross through I heard the most horrible tearing sound in my shoulder followed up immediately by a complete loss of power in my arm. (Torn posterior deltoid perhaps?) Whatever it is it certainly doesn't make for the best way to end my Spanish adventure at all. Time for a week of sorting out life stuff, hoping the shoulder isn't as bad as it currently feels. If it isn't up to any hard pulling I think it'll be time for some trad slabs in Scotland....

Rodellar me encantas

2010-05-09T11:39:00.000+01:00

Another good few days have been had in Rodellar with "Team Scotland MkII". After the pleasure of my success on Geminis and various other onsights up to 8a my motivation and confidence has been very high. Looking for another BIG line to project I set my sights on Iron Man a huge 45m 8c. The reality of this route turned out to be a little less enticing. The 45m really comes down to a 17m power endurance roof in the sky above an easy 7b+ with the two sections being separated by a complete (standing up) no hand rest. I can see the approach to the roof getting very dull if this turns into a siege! The 8c part comes down to long physical moves on good holds which deposit you at the lip of the enormous roof of the La Surgencia sector. The crux kicks in at the transitition to the headwall with awkward almost slabby moves guarded by a long cross-through off the world's most painful heelhook. Tactically I decided to look at the route 3rd day on, tired from the first 2 big days here, but with the idea I would have it all sorted for the day after a rest day.

On the next climbing day and by the 2nd redpoint I reached the lip only to hurt my heel quite badly in the heelhook. I decided to leave thoughts of this route behind for a few days and turn my hand to some onsighting/flashing, finishing the day off with a flash of Evasion 8a and then a spectacular failure and near groundfall (thanks to some spectacular belaying) on the phenomenal, Les Chacals which is only spoiled by being downgraded to the terrible non-grade of 8a+/b in the latest topo.

The next day was fantastic, a possible rival to doing Geminis second go. I set off to the crag with Team Australia, this time; Andrea Hah (mutante) and Doug McConnell (dunkin biscuit). Not sure what to warm up on I decided to just get on something; No Limit a 45m 8a+ which I knew to be a good candidate for an onsight. Although I have onsighted a few 8a+'s I really want to get my confidence up onsighting this grade and this seemed like the perfect route to get the ball rolling. The long, pumpy, blocky style is very much my thing and after a long time on the wall, I had bagged the route onsight. A good start to the day!

Andrea Hah one half of team Oz, great climbers and fantastic cooks! (Photo: Doug McConnell)

Next off was a return to Les Chacals, both Andrea and Doug had recently ticked this and they were able to run through the beta with me and I was very pleased to get this 2nd go. This might well be the best route in Rodellar, a real standout piece of climbing. With a quality beta team, I decided to have a go at another Rodellar classic, Espirit Rebeld which I had been saving for a flash or onsight for some time. In spite of a few damp holds the impeccable beta got me up this route to round up a fantastic day and another 8a+/b in the bag. (I hate these slash grades!)

Doug McConnell: This man has good beta and good beer! (Photo Andrea Hah)

Photos to come, when I find the time to get the camera out of the bag...too much climbing to do!

Rodellar, No Cash, No Future: CLIMB CLIMB CLIMB!!!

2010-05-04T22:47:00.001+01:00

So I've found my way to Rodellar, sleeping in the GTI (which I need to get rid of) freezing to death in the Siberian winds but climbing well! Leaving the furnace of Santa Linya behind, I followed Team Scotland MkII to Rodellar. Day one was a nice start, tidying up a loose end Gladiator 8a+ (formerly 8b) and adding Coliseum 8a to the slowly growing list of 8s I have bagged onsight.

The next day was a dream, after a struggled 7b warm up I plucked up the courage to try the next big route I have been dreaming of trying in Rodellar after Pata Negra, Geminis. This former 8c, downgraded for the latest topo, is one of the biggest lines to be found anywhere and I felt nervous leaving the ground with 20 odd clips not knowing what was going to happen. 30 mins later I was on the ground, I knew it was possible, but in how many days? A 2nd attempt would sort out where I needed to iron out the sequences. Setting off "for a go", I went comfortably through the crux, on to the huge pumpy head wall, but didn't get that pumped. I kept climbing through the last hard bit; not that bad; anchors clipped; 8b+ second go. GET IN!!!

Moving on, for now...

2010-04-27T12:28:00.000+01:00

Well I seem to have been woken with a start from the dreams of bagging Open Your Mind. I have a lot to learn from the experience of this project. Should I have done it before now? Probably! There are a lot of factors to weigh up. I certainly could have been a little more "pro" but with Team Scotland about, it was hard to turn down the odd cerveza (or 2...). I suppose I really should have kept the eye on the ball, but then again, climbing is meant to be fun; though sometimes I wonder!

Teen Mutant or Bad Influence?

Circumstances too have had an impact. When I started with this project I was on a bit of a high, just having done Rollito-Sharma Extension. It's hard to maintain these peaks, and with the time pressure of giving the cave over to the archaeologists for another year I was reluctant to take more than a rest day at a time. Perhaps this was the nail in the coffin. A definite negative spiral of performance has been accompanied by an almost overnight increase in the temperatures from "good nick" to "inferno" and breaking the tiniest, but seemingly crucial, sliver of rock off a pinch has added another dimension to the diminishing returns. So I have accepted defeat in this battle at least; but the war, as they say, is not over!

Now it's time to tick a few routes draw up a final set of goals for the few weeks that remain of my Catalan climbing adventure. But deep down I can feel a Trad Revival coming on...

Trad Revival 2010?

Open Your Mind - 100% A Muerte!

2010-04-18T20:13:00.001+01:00

These last few weeks have been very eventful; a volcano has kept team Scotland from returning home, a hole in my finger has kept me off the project, a broken car is causing major headaches and the threat of Santa Linya going into its annual closure before I can get my ass up my first 8c+ is topping it all off. But if thats all your worries I suppose life can't be that bad!

With the time pressure, I had to go back to OYM to experiment with some other fingers in the cutting mono. Happily I discovered I could do the move with a ring finger mono just as well, if not better, and redpoints have resumed with a new high point being set before the tips gave way. 3 moves are all that stand in the way. 3 moves and maybe less than 2 weeks to do them in, what you going to do, if your work means that works out at only 4 days.... QUIT YOUR JOB OF COURSE!

OFF! Oh man, whats this going to take! (Photo: Dan Walker)

So "pro climber" mode has been engaged, (worrying about the fact I'm not actually a pro later) in the hope the next major climbing milestone can be achieved. Lets see!

The 3rd of the monos, the mangler! Now with ring finger method, not so bad! (Photo: Dan Walker)

As for Team Scotland, things did not slow down with the arrival of Paul Williamson who bagged his first 8b the day after flashing his first 8a! Wow! Ben Litster bagged the same 8b, Santa Linya, at the cave of course. Paul had to get home and missed the volcano, but the others are still here, so lets see what happens!

Paul Williamson cruising his first 8b Santa Linya, only his second grade 8 route!

The Bolger & Stocking Show

2010-04-06T16:17:00.001+01:00

Easter holidays finally!!!!

With thoughts of spoilt brats left behind for a week or so it has been the time to do some hard work on the big project and show an expedition from Scotland what's what. The team are still here but already a couple of big ticks have gone down to Jonny Stocking.

Jonny comfortably moving into the crux of Rollito-Sharma 8b+ on his first attempt

First the Kilwinning prodigy launched an attack on Rollito-Sharma wich put up very little resistence in becoming his first 8b+. The next day and with only a few hours sleep he efficiently busted out Non Stop at Terradets for his first 8b (yes, in that order). Neither of these routes seemed to cause him any kind of difficulty so here is hoping that this trip will be extremely fruitful for him. Watch this space.

Jonny easily latching the crux pinch on Rollito-Sharma

For his part Tom now seems to be inhabiting the outer limits of climbing. He managed to fight off a chest infection I brought back form Scotland just enough to knock on the door of the nether world beyond 9a when he redpointed Direct Open Your Mind (R1) as far as the 1st chain which is given 9a/+. This, his 3rd (or 4th!) 9a, consists of an 8c+ into an 8c+ with only an awkward uspsidedown kneebar rest separating the two sections. He is determined to make the final 8b+/c link to the final belay for the full confirmed hard 9a+ and join Ramon Julian, Chris Sharma, Thomas Mrazek and Dani Andrada in the list of ascensionists.

This kind of level makes my own personal ambitions sound very very humble as I try to do the original, easiest, version of Open Your Mind. I kicked off the holidays making a crucial link from below the crux of Open Your Mind to the belay, so in theory the route was on. The problem, a 1 cm diameter hole on the back of my mono finger. Trying to push through the pain barrier and experimenting with various unhelpful taping strategies I continued to progress with the route, getting the moves hardwired. Feeling good and with a link from the ground to the top undercuts, effectively 4 moves from the finish but the redpoint crux, I thought the thing was going to go down this week. Then, on the next redpoint, I managed to dramatically snap a crucial hold clean off the wall. This was also a (brief) disaster for Tom too in his hopes of sending Direct Open Your Mind. Thank God for Sika!

Locking off into the 3rd mono (the cutter!) on Open Your Mind (Photo: Dan Walker)

Unfortunately the non-stop climbing on the mono wound has made it so bad that an enforced rest will be needed before redpoints can resume. Looking for some alternative training routes we headed to Disblia where rather than redpoint Prevantiva 8b, I ripped a hole in a pad. PERFECT! Tape, superglue, coffee and a rediculous level of motivation did help me to bag one route this week when I managed (just) to step up to the pressure of following Jonny up with an ascent of Non Stop 8b.

Oh no, another hole! The horrible realisation mid way up Prevantiva 8b at Disblia

Now for some rest, grow some skin then back to Open Your Mind. Stay tuned to see what the Glasgow contingent can get done before the end of their trip.

¡A muerte!

Rollito-Sharma Extension The Movie

2010-03-30T09:30:00.000+01:00

Alan Cassidy on Rollito Sharma extension from Abraham Hernández on Vimeo.

Thanks to Abraham Hernandez for creating this excellent video which is very nice to have for posterity. Abraham has a great blog (in Spanish) with lots of news etc from the comings and goings on the Lleida scene, check it out!

As for the most recent project, Open Your Mind, things are coming on well except for the heinous mono-wound which refuses to heal fast enough for me to have a proper redpoint. I can't wait!

Open Your Mind Cassidy!

2010-03-25T13:22:00.002Z

Back in Spain, heavy head-cold, rain, damp rock the scene is set perfectly to start imagining the next level...

La Mare del Tano 8a+/b not in Gogarth and not as loose as it looks (Photo: Victor Montilla)

Topping Rollito Extension has finally made climbing 8c seem like a very achievable objective, it no longer scares me to try one and that is cool, I hope I wont be stopping at 3, but what I've realised is that to really improve you need to be pushing that comfort zone. There is something so exciting about being unsure of whether you can or cannot climb something. It has to be on that line of uncertainty, too hard just gets unmotivating for me, too easy is becoming similarly mundane. Guess I'm turning in to Tom.

Yesterday, with every intention of pushing my comfort zone I returned to try Open Your Mind for real. The crag was soaking and it took a bit of an Indian rope trick to get on to the dry part of the route but even with a cold and lethargy and weakness permeating my body I made good headway. Doing all the moves again first time and then linking the top crux section on the first bash at a link. I was pleasently surprised. I'm ready to dedicate a lot of effort into this route, especially as the school holidays are but a week away.

¡Venga vicho!

How far would you travel for a session a Craigmaddie?

2010-03-23T12:14:00.000Z

...2107km

So it was that I made a flying visit to Scotland to sort out some of that strange life business that crops up every now and again to take energy away from climbing. Luckily I timed sending my project with perfection such that I could plan to relax, maybe kick start the trad season on the day I had free, or so I had planned.

Instead I ended up letting my hair down, a little further than normal and wrote any chance of climbing off. But even with a sore head and little sleep, the warm, dry, Glasgow weather (sic) was too hard to ignore after the Spanish winter. Did I just write that?! Richard and I headed up to have a play on the Glaswegian gritstone of Craigmaddie.

The ambience of Craigmaddie is quite something! (Photo Courtesy of Fraser Harle)

Craigmaddie is a surreal climbing venue. There isn't much too it, but the rock is nice, rough sandstone or is it really gritstone? Geological semantics aside, the vista over Glasgow with the tower blocks seeming strangely beautiful, is fantastic. The problems are fun too and generally of good quality. Fun eliminate options are possible for the bored or the strong. The harder problems also seem worth the effort. I'll return one day to get my revenge with Ben and Mike's (The Inverness Bouldering Mafia) testpieces!

So if your looking for a wee change from Dumby, then this is definitely one Scottish bouldering venue that comes recommended.

The Project is Done, Long Live the Project...

2010-03-19T17:46:00.000Z

The cave of justice: Rollito-Sharma Extension climbs from the back to the big half way break

Sometimes there is something in the air that lets you know that it's going to be a good day. So it was when I awoke on Wednesday, the sun out and the morning off. It was the morning of reckoning with Rollito-Sharma Extension. I warmed up feeling sore and skinless from the weekend's efforts at Margalef and the first effort of a redpoint ended pitifully low on the, still wet, crux pinch of the 8b+ version. Knowing that I was going to have to give it a little more there to by-pass the wet hold, I went for another go and found myself at the final crux feeling better than ever before. The final crimp was no longer impossible to hang and with the obligatory power scream I made the lunge for the last hold and victory.

On an early attempt of Rollito-Sharma Extension (8c number 3 and 8 number 159, yes I am counting!)

At the chains something switched in my mind, I was happy to complete my personal magic grade for the 3rd time, sure, but now I realised that I needed to have a bigger fish to fill the vacant PROJECT space in my mind. I'm starting to understand where Dave Macleod has been coming from, I've become a redpointer!

I didn't jump off straight away, I looked upwards, an expanse of rock the same length as I had already climbed lying in wait above my head. Although a lot of it was wet I ventured upwards into the extension referred to as "...Por La Enmienda" which is common for a few of the hardest routes in the cave and bumps a few up to 9a. Essentially it is a direct entry into the upper part of Dani Andrada's awe inspiring Novena Enmienda 9a/+ (depends who you ask!) . Since day 1 out here I've been inspired to climb on this amazing natural line and even if it is the easiest way into it, I won't complain if its my first 8c+! I've now gone within a week from having one 8c project to two 8c+ projects. My horizon is expanding if not my abilities, time will tell whether I'm up to this latest challenge.

But first, I'm going trad climbing in Scotland...Trad Revival 2010 starts Saturday.

Fluidity + Confidence = Motivation

2010-03-16T16:48:00.000Z

Finally, the movement patterns and endurance are reappearing, I'm feeling confident in my own abilities again and the routes are falling fast while I wait for the project to dry out a bit...

Saturday saw "Team Guiri" welcome Jules Littlefair who was over visiting her Spanish trainer in Barcelona. It was really inspiring talking to Jules. She has a really fantastic attitude towards training, she is so dedicated and is prepared to sacrifice a sunny day to the climbing wall as she targets the bigger goals. This has already seen her sending 8a and she's not stopping there... This approach is quite common here in Spain; Ramon, Patxi et al can all be seen to benefit from this approach. For example, Ramon did 2 8c+/9a's on top of a load of other stuff this weekend, that's his day off!

Saturday was spent at Santa Linya which is still recovering from the snow. I took advantage of the drier rock on a new addition called Pegue Nocturno 8a+ and continued into the 8a+ extension of Asaltín Bankis which in total gives an awesome 8b. It was particularly special because I hadn't been back to the top part since I did it, several months ago, but was pleased to battle my way through first time.

The fantastic new route Pegue Nocturno (R1 8a/+ R2 8b) thanks to the equiper, Andoni Perez!

I then followed the example of my mutant housemate and got on Open Your Mind 8c+. Tom made light work of this and I'm sure he'll soon be linking the direct start in for one of his first 9a+'s in the not too distant future. As for me, I was extremely (pleasantly) surprised to do all the moves first time, and link a few little sections. It seems like it is now high on the project list!

Champion of Spain Victor Esteller trying Open Your Mind 8c+

Sunday was a change of scene, back to Espadelles in Margalef where all remnants of my skin were lost. The highlight was Tom flashing his first 8b El Ball del Triceps after I went on it as beta-monkey. I failed, just, to redpoint this in the dying light of Sunday night, right at the top of the wall where the footholds had vanished into obscurity. I was pleased nonetheless to have done ONG, an 8a+ featuring some very nice tufas and even more pleased on Monday to take advantage of a cancelled class to rush back to Espadelles to tick El Ball... in the blazing sunshine.

All notions of epidermis are gone but the motivation will hopefully compensate for that.

Return of the Cold

2010-03-12T11:12:00.001Z

Well the battle with Rollito-Sharma has had an enforced interlude due to the crazy weather here in Catalunya. Reports of snow on the beach in Barcelona, the thermometer reading -10 C in the car one morning and iceicles all over Santa Linya have all come as a surprise.

La Casa and several inches of snow! Note the GTI, the source of 90% of my stress in recent months

The bad weather was poorly timed for the arrival of Niall McNair for a week-long trip. Before the weather turned he managed to dispatch with Kalea Barroka at Siurana. Although this is given 8b+ in the topo, Niall has confirmed what I have heard said before; that this route is absolutely fantastic but just a little too easy to warrant the "+". He's now on the hunt for what he calls a "real 8b+" which I have now doubt will only be a matter of time.

Harry doesn't seem to mind the cold too much! It's all fun for him.

For my part I had a fantastic trip to Margalef last weekend for a little bit of onsighting with the highlights being the magnificent Pal Sur 8a+ and Xaramba 8a at the Espadelles sector. Really I'm just biding my time for the next round with the big one!

Me vs Rollito-Sharma Extension the last time the sun was shining.

Fail, fail and fail some more...

2010-03-06T20:45:00.004Z

Another 4 tries, another 4 failures. What is the extra % point I'm missing...too heavy? Not enough sleep? Cold weather? Or is it just a lack of killer instinct?

I hope it's just a matter of time...bring on Wednesday morning!

Training for Something...

2010-03-02T15:49:00.001Z

Tuesday has become training day. I practically sacked in training last year due to a horrible elbow injury and general lack of motivation to climb indoors. The move to Spain allowed me to make some gains without having to touch a single plastic hold. But, time constraints, long work days and the general cold weather have meant I have returned to the lumps of resin and plywood.

At first it was hard and I just started messing about, making little campus problems. This soon developed into a regular circuit of campus problems which has developed further into some surprisingly fast gains. I've never done that much campusing for any real length of time, nor pure strength work (being an endurance junky) but I like what I'm seeing. I hope this is going to convert into being able to crush the finishing crimps of Rollito-Sharma soon. Pity about the forecast....

Winter Survived! Role out the psyche...

2010-02-27T08:20:00.001Z

How refreshing it is to be fully psyched to the max again. A combination of belaying Tom on his 2nd first 9a Direct ("into your") Fabelita, improving temperatures and starting to fall at the top of my own project rather than at the bottom, have pushed my motivation to overload.

I'm writing this after a sleepless night spent replaying Friday morning's action on Rollito-Sharma Extension which I hope will soon be 8c number 3. To cut a long story short I hit the 2nd last hold (of the whole route) twice, snatching defeat from the jaws of victory as is the Scottish way. A third redpoint saw a fall only a couple of moves lower. All in all that equates to 3 laps of an 8b+ in a few hours, which for me is definitely a sign that things are starting to progress upwards again after the long lull that followed La Fabelita. I'm making an effort to reign in the kgs a little too, training on the finger board and generally arising from the winter slumber... Lets see if the extra 1% is there today, ¡Venga!

Below is a little video I pinched from Abraham Hernández who I had the pleasure of climbing with yesterday. It shows some action from the Cave of Justice (not the polsished little one at the Orme). ¡Disfruata!

Cave inhabitants from Abraham Hernández on Vimeo.

Kudos as well to the afforementioned Tom who ticked his 2nd 9a in 3 days yesterday with his ascent of Fuck the System, some things are bloody hard to follow. Hopefully some of his skills will start rubbing off on me. Now, where's that Slim Fast?

Major, Minor and Mental Epics

2010-02-15T11:01:00.000Z

Well life in Catalunya since returning from the Christams holidays has been a little crazy and I have had a long spell of not really wanting to climb and especially not blog but hopefully the balance is changing back in the positive direction. I'm definitely not much of a January person and living in sub-zero temperatures in a house with no central heating doesn't do a lot for the overall motivation. Now we are in to Febrauary and there have been signs of progression back to some form of strength. Perhaps the addition of a little training into the mix rather than solely climbing at the crags is helping push me back onto the right page. It certainly isn't the temperature that has got the motivation up. Today it's -2 and everyday this week it has been seriously struggling to get above a few degrees.

I do have a new project on the go though, Rollito-Sharma Extension, which goes at 8c. The last 3 days in a row I've had some good redpoints, falling in the middle of the final crux sequence. The route has had iceicles hanging off it and I think that if I could actually feel my fingers when I got to the crux it might give me all the edge I need to make the 4 moves more stopping me ticking my 3rd 8c.

Although there is the prospect of bagging another 8c soon I really feel like I have to take a look at my climbing a little now. It's crazy but I think that at times in the past I have been climbing alot better than I am at the moment. A major factor is the vastly reduced volume I manage to climb here (believe it or not) because I haven't been training at a wall (until this January that is) and the other is my overall fitness. My weight is significantly up on what I have always considered a reasonable weight for me and I've got at least 10kg on the guys busting out the 8c+s. It´s hard to eliminate bad habits when your freezing cold, stressed out and teaching annoying little kids but that's what needs to happen.

Brrrrrr ¡Qué frio!

2009-12-23T11:41:00.000Z

It is so cold her in Catalunya at the moment and since La Fabelita went down I've been on a little bit of a down phase both in motivation and strength. Well timed really, it's Christmas and I'm heading back to Scotland. I'm really looking forward to it. Central heating, Ratho, TV, climbing DVDs, hot meals...

So the caves of Northern Spain will have to wait till 2010. The motivation, that has been absent in the last couple of weeks is already starting to creep back in. I have a few 8c targets to get my teeth into in January, weather permitting and then hopefully from there, there will still be some room for improvement...

On the inspiration front, Chris Sharma sent Neanderthal 9b the other day. It would be amazing to be able to climb to the top of the Santa Linya cave from the centre of the cave. The easiest way is 8c+... question is can I squeeze a plus out of the tank?

Another way to the top is from the end of my most recent send, here Dani the animal shows us how at 9a...

Cheers POD

2009-12-12T20:23:00.003Z

Moving into the redpoint crux on La Fabelita 8c (Photo: Pete O'Donovan)

This is a nice photo taken by the original Catalan climbing convert, rucsac empresario and all round great guy, Pete O'Donovan of me on La Fabelita 8c which he has given me for this blog.

It's so amazing being able to climb on great routes like this everyday I go climbing. Even though I'm working 6 days a week to be here and only have the possibility of frustratingly short sessions, which makes the projects seem to drag on, I can't complain too much. It beats the climbing wall anyday.

La Fabelita is done!

2009-12-08T20:51:00.001Z

Mid 1st Crux, the crack traverse (Photo: Lynne Malcolm)

On Friday all the stress and strain of having a redpoint project finished. I managed to get up La Fabelita, 8c. My second of this my personal magical grade. I pretty much did it twice, having redpointed through the hardest move of the top crux on my first attempt. The second was one of those last minute affairs. I had to leave the crag at 2:45 to go to work. So when I pulled on, still pumped, at 2:40 I was in a bit of a rush! I seemed to get less and less pumped as I climbed. In the end I climbed smoothly through the whole thing saving the wobble for the last couple of easy moves. What was the the last 2 months fuss all about? I lowered off, accepted the congratulations and sprinted to the van, late for work, but happy.

At the halfway rest psyching up for the crux (Photo: Lynne Malcolm)

As with all these things one project only leads to another. This weekend has been hard on the body. Sizing up the new project; Rollito-Sharma Extension 8c, trying to tick Irak Attack, 8a+ while recovering from the hangover from the vino. The cave is full of overly motivated types, ticking everything and your own personal travails are just that, but that is how it should be. Its hard not to feed off the energy of Mrazek, Sharma and the man who might be more psyched than Robbie Philips, Joey Kinder.

Ouch, that mono hurts! Moving into the crux section, the mono move isn't actually the hardest!

This weekened has been a rare holiday, 3 day weekend rather than 1, yes! Today we went exploring and I like what I see. The Pyrenese in winter has a lot of posibilities...

Fabelita Part 2 & Terradets Mileage - Pron: "Millyajj"

2009-11-17T16:38:00.002Z

In my element at Terradets (All photos: Lynne Malcolm)

The winter conditions seem to be attractring the world super-powers down to Santa Linya. Dave Graham, Tomas Mrazek, Chris Sharma, and Joey Kinder have all been getting outshined by team Ratho: McGeek, Buzz, Ally Swinton and Robbie Phillips who have also been spotted crushing the cave in recent days. With the added enthusiasm of having finally sorted the beta out on La Fabelita I was able to head down last week before classes on a couple of occassions to test it out. This change of beta was what was needed and I now find myself comfortably redpointing to the final deadpoint, redpoint crux, each time. The countdown to the send has begun.

Also at Santa Linya, Lynne crushed her project, Devora Hombres which is basically the hardest 7c+ going and surely marks her as being one step away from becoing the first Scottish woman to climb 8a. Neil McGeek lived up to 50% of his potential by sending his first 8b, Santa Linya. Get on Rollito Neil! As for Lynne's other half, well he spiv-ed the top of Fuck the System and needs to go back up there at least another time but there is no shaddow of a doubt he'll be claiming his first confirmed 9a in the next few days.

Some 9a climber/weirdo and his dog in the back of my van.

The real issue for me now is skin! The top of my route has a deep-but-sharp mono which tears a huge hole in my finger more or less every time I try. Tape doesn't seem to work, so my goes are now limited to 1 or 2 a week. The great news about this is it allows me to do a bit of mileage, my favourite past time. With this in mind we headed to Terradets.....

Life is good. Or at least when it's a climbing day!

Half way up El Latido 8a, despite the ground looking like it's and inch below my feet!

I had one route in mind for Terradets, El Latido del Miedo 8a, which is pretty much the classic line at a crag of classics. I have been to Terradets once before and this route had been soaking so I was psyched to have an opportunity to go back for the onsight. When we got to the crag the conditions were perfect, a cool breeze and a little sunshine lifted the psyche levels right up. I warmed up with an onsight of another mega-classic, Occident 7c+, which was steady-away and comes highly recommended. The onsight of Latido went pretty smoothly and I was happy to add another onsight 8a to my ever growing list (141 8's in total - I'm such a trainspotter). Later I had a punt at Millenium another 8a and fell within a couple of bolts of the top having fought my way through the horrible slab crux only to make an amateur reading mistake when it could have been in the bag. A warm down on Orient 7c made the day complete and one of the most tiring I've had in a long while.

With some ticks in the bag my focus again is returning to La Fabelita this route is so amazing and will be another step forward for my climbing. Role on Wednesday morning!

Another view of El Latido del Miedo 8a

Poc a Poc... Pure Barry

2009-11-08T19:32:00.001Z

Little by little, as it is said here in Catalunya, I am making some progress on La Fabelita. This has been a very frustrating week for getting on the project though. Wednesday morning saw 40-odd school children close down the cave to climbers for the morning while they learned about neanderthal man. I think it would have been much more educational for them to watch and cheer me on on a redpoint but it wasn't to be. Then on friday, my only other midweek gap in my schedule, I was forced into Llieda for a meeting which was about as useful as sun-tan lotion in Glasgow.

Anyhow, the weekend finally arrived and the climbing conditions were "barry" as we say in Vilanova. Finally the cold has arrived in La Noguera. Although it might have been nicer to have had it a few degrees warmer I can't complain too much as the friction was muy bueno.

Tired in the summer, and we weren't even working, imagine what its like now. The three of us are almost dead! L-R Tom, Ellie & Me

Saturady and Sunday have come and gone with progress made all round. Lynne nearly, so nearly sent Devora Hombres which is the hardest 7c+ this side of Disblia. I moved my foot a little higher using my Fabelita sequence I pinched from Tom, only to finally discover a method that suits the fat and weak a little better!

As for Tom, well Titan, has been making daily gains on the sickness that is Fuck the System 9a. Today was incredible though, he fought his way through his high point and now has very little to do before the route goes down. It is such an inspiration to watch and belay him on this route and makes me want to try my own projects with the same determination he puts in. Nice!

Tom Bolger, a little bit strong, OK, very strong, but we don't want him getting a big head!

On the inspiration front too, Andreas Bindhammer sent La Novena Enmienda 9a+ today in the most static, slow and incredible piece of climbing I have ever seen. This route climbs from the bottom to the very lip of the cave, not a cop-out like my route which stops at half way. I'd love to imagine myself doing this route one day, even if its only in my dreams.

Frustration

2009-11-03T15:59:00.003Z

Redpointing is hard on the head. One minute you are making progress and think things are going to go down quickly, the next it's all going tits up!

Or at least thats the story with La Fabelita this week. I'm happy with the sequence, especially with some new improved foot beta making the technical crux alot easier, but i still can't get through to the working end of the route. I just have to tell myself that its a hard route and these things take time. But I want it all now, there are far too many routes at the cave to get stuck on one!

I did manage to ease the load of the to do list slightly on Saturday by crimping my way up the more Malham-esque Blomu as far as the 2/3 height belay. This far is 8b, but really just a cop out. The full thing goes to the top of the crag at 8c+. A project for the future.

La Fabelita...

2009-10-19T11:43:00.007+01:00

Santa Linya is on the cards alot more now the temperature has started to take a serious nose dive here in Lleida. Having finally dealt with the demons of Rollito I was searching for a new project and was attracted to a line up the very steep (it's all steep) right hand side of the cave. Here abouts there is a trio of 8c, 8c+s which share a common start and a cool ramp line which loks more like 7c than 8c. Anyway, it turns out the holds are all a little unhelpful and making upward progress requires a very complicated series of up, down and sideways moves which makes for one of the coolest sport routes I have tried.

Mid crux, the crack and ramp feature proves alot harder than it looks and is shared with La Fabela 8c+

I have been working on La Fabelita which is the entry level version of the 3 routes and goes at 8c. Thanks to Tom I have been able to skip all the hard, frustrating work of figuring out a sequence for the ramp, as I was more or less able to adapt his hard faught sequence to suit me. Unfortunately the power endurance needed to link together all the moves is not quite there yet but training on the route is so fun and will be a great tool for me to progress to mastering 8c a bit better. After 3 days of trying this route my back and abs are ripped apart, my middle finger has a blister from the huge yard on a mono that marks the start of the redpoint crux and I'm psyched out my tiny little mind.

The poor rest at half height, not the no-hand kneebar effort on Pata Negra, La Fabelita 8c

Approaching the redpoint crux in the amazing last light of the day

About to be swallowed by the dark!

I did however find the energy to climb all the way to the top of the cave via a long steady 8b, El Arqueo Logico which was a spicy warm up on my 3rd day on, but a really recommendable route at the grade. (I had done the finish from an easier start the previous day which, perhaps 8a+).

Hats off to Tom as well, who is going like a steam train at the moment. He sent Digital System, 8c, third go this weekend. In my mind this further cnfirms that Ramon is talking out his arse in giving Guilty-Perpetua 8c, the guy just has no idea how good he is, simple as that!

Rollito-Sharma Part 1

2009-10-13T15:51:00.004+01:00

The last post talked about me having too many projects. Although this remains the case, I ticked an intermediate project of mine, the fantastic Rollito-Sharma 8b+. Every now and again certain routes turn into personal nightmares and Rollito has been one of those for me. I don't know how many goes it took me in the end but it could have been done in 2 and took more than 15 attempts. For what reasons did I lack the killer finish with this route? I can't put my finger on it. Somedays it was hot, somedays I had a cold, others I felt fine but some strange mental block held me back. Whatever it was, it was a real battle. The problem is I really want to do Rollito-Sharma Extension and Ingravids Eskerps (and its extension). Both of which require me to be a bit more definitive on the crux of Rollito which they all have in common. A little change of scene then battle will recommence. If only I could do it as nicely as Daila in Dosage V!

Too many projects, classes and not enough blogs...

2009-10-06T11:22:00.003+01:00

Well I haven't been able to blog very much since I arrived in Catalunya. This is partially due to trying to climb as much as possible but also to the absence of an internet connection at home. When I'm at work, which seems to be taking over all my time now the school year is in full flow, I simply can't be bothered to sit at the computer and think about writing English after hours of trying to explain grammar points that I don't even get right myself!

Since Pata Negra I have been searching for the next big project while ticking a few classics along the way. In Rodellar I followed up with Botanics and Phillipe Cuisiniere, both given 8b+ but neither worth more than 8b. It's a bit of a shame that such routes are so well known and so soft as it gives the impression that Spain is just full of soft touches.

Las Ventanas still has a few routes for me to try!

It certainly isn't as I disciovered when I tried climbing at Disblia, an amazing cave near the village of St. Llorenç de Montgai. This site is about 10mins from the house and is set to be my training ground. It's hard though! I've been working Cadena Perpetua an "old-school" 8c of Dani Andrada's. I've been on it 4 times now and each time I feel like sacking it off. It just seems so unlikely that I'll get it done. I'm going to try and take on Dave Mac's mentality and have more belief and try to enjoy the process of working something close to my limit but I'm very impatient by my very nature.

This trad-like adventure got me thinking of home

With access to Santa Linya still delicate and the weather still a little hot for the cave Rollito-Sharma (and maybe the extension, which I find really really hard) is turning into a long-term project, but only for lack of attempts. We've also managed a few trips to Margalef's Cova Boix, where I'm attempting to stuff my oversized fingers into the little pockets on an 8b+ but again it'll be a siege as this kind of thing does not suit my fat fingers and heavy body!

¡Ramon es mutante!

Tom has been ripping it up at Disblia too. Having done Cadena Perpetua earlier this year he added in 2 harder starts, first came "Arresto Perpetua" which adds an even harder start (than the one I find impossible on Cadena) which he believed to be more like 8c+ and certainly very hard 8c and then came "Guilty Perpetua" which adds a 3 bolt 8b+ to the start and which he thought was harder than the 8c+'s he has done. With a bit of persuasion he gave it 9a only for Ramon to say that he had already done this link and thinks it to be 8c!!!

Ramon seems to be on another planet I don't think he even knows hos strong he is. If Guilty Perpetua is anything less than 8c+ then Cadena... must be more like 8b+ max making Pata Negra more like 8b and further down grading every single route in Rodellar and I don't think I will never climb 8c ever. Cheers Ramon! LOL

Mission Accomplished! 8c

2009-09-11T19:00:00.007+01:00

Since I pinned the poster of Ben Moon on my wall climbing Azincourt at Buoux I have dreamed of climbing 8c. In those days that was the hardest route in the world (give or take) and I never actually thought that 8c would be achievable for me. Still, I could dream! As the years have gone by 8c has become less and less cutting edge and more and more of a real possibility for me to actually climb. Having climbed a few 8b+ routes I knew it wouldn’t be beyond me to achieve my personal magical grade.

I don’t know what it is about 8c that captured my imagination so much more than 8c+ or even 9a which, being a whole number higher, just seems that much more unattainable. What ever it is 8c has filled my thoughts an unhealthy amount. Whether it was in the library when I was meant to be studying for medical exams or down the wall training, my mind has always been occupied by the dream of climbing this grade. I nearly did one a couple of years ago, True North at Kilnsey, but this still remains an ongoing project after 2.5 years of almost perma-wetness, hold breakages and the general fatigue of trying a project so far from home stopped that one in its tracks.

The amazing roof of Las Ventanas de Mascun, Pata Negra quests straight through the middle!!

Then this April I came to Spain with Jonny Stocking and during what was largely a wash out of a trip I got on Pata Negra, probably the most famous 8c in Rodellar. The route tackles a 30+ metre unrelenting roof, climbing upside down almost all the way. It is sustained but never super desperate and I though it sounded like the perfect first 8c. Especially seeing as it had been onsighted!

Lost on the roof of Pata Negra, 8c

I was surprised by how hard the sections felt back in April and after going up once decided that I was unlikely to do this route without masses of training. On my return home it started to fill my thoughts more and more. Maybe I could do it afterall? And then, (on a brief return to Spain for the job interview that brought me here now) I heard the bad news…. A Spaniard told us of how a hold had broken after the 1st of 3 boulder problem “cruxes” on Pata Negra, this added a further new crux where a relatively easy but sustained section had been and he said it might not be possible anymore!

Working the moves on the first boulder problem

Still, when I decided to move to Spain I knew what I was going to get on first, I wanted to do 8c so bad and I wanted it to be a “King Line” and I knew of few quite as stunning as Pata Negra. I arrived in the second week of August and got straight to it. After a few sessions of working out the most efficient methods on each of the boulder problems and unlocking a dyno to a small tufa that made the “impossible section” still possible I was ready to start redpointing. Having spent most of 2009 nursing a very sore elbow the fitness was low. The first few days of attempts were more about building up the fitness to climb a route harder than any I had achieved before.

Then all of a sudden on the next visit I stuck the jump move for the first time from the ground, I kept going. I reached the good kneebar rest close to the end of the roof, then the 3rd crux “el paso de ombro”, the shoulder press move (which is probably the iconic move of the route) was done, I fell just after, but I knew it was on. Then the lurgy hit! 3 days on the sofa made me a little lighter but added more to the frustration than anything else.

Close up of the same boulder problem

After another visit and another few days away from Rodellar I returned with a plan. I had been trying the route in very hot mid 30s heat most of the time which was unbearable but largely unavoidable given that most climbers seem to be allergic to early mornings. This time however I was going to persuade Lynne to get out of bed early so as to benefit from the cold morning air. She agreed and to my surprise she did manage to get our her van when I came knocking at 7.10 the next morning. After a gentle warm up I was tying in under the route just before 9am, the sun was just coming up over the hill but the rock had not felt so sticky in all the time I had been trying the route.

Hitting the first crux holds perfectly I knew I felt good, landing the jump felt easy, the sustained traverse into the kneebar like a doddle. Unusually I didn’t feel the need to stay there as long as ususal. Into the shoulder press… a formality. The redpoint crux, right at the lip now all that stands between me and my dream. This time the holds felt better than they ever had. I put in the huge drop knee and slapped the crimp that usually felt so far awy…the 2 finger pocket, cut the feet loose, “YES”, still there, sloper, crimp, lunge for the jug…"I’m still on!" I scream for focus. Its only 7a ish from here but I don’t want to lose it now. I clip the chains. “Its over. I have climbed 8c!”

Kicking back with Dillan after a cerveza too many in celebration!

Afterwards the feeling of lightness that took over my body was incredible. I felt indestructible. I just wanted to climb everything. Nobody could understand it. Why would I want to climb anything else after doing the project of a lifetime? But I did. 10 mins later and a 7c+ onsight in the bag, then an 8a, then 7b+, another 2 7c+s. I felt like I could just keep going and going. If only every climbing day you felt that good! Alas the day had to come to an end and the hangover has definitely begun. Typing this I’m still tired 2 days later, wondering when I’ll next feel like I did that day.

Once is never enough!

A long road travelled

2009-08-20T15:16:00.003+01:00

Well all the travelling is over and I have arrived in my new base, 15 mins cycle from Santa Linya! I can't express in words how motivated I am to be here and I'll get back on the blog scene as soon as I'm a little more settled in. For now I'm getting my teeth in to achieving my lifetime climbing ambition of sending an 8c. I've been surprised at how well that has been going inspite of the 35+ degree heat. Perhaps I'll be readjusting the lifetime objective up a notch in the future, who knows? First things first, I guess. Hasta lluego!

On the Road...

2009-08-03T07:10:00.004+01:00

This blog is going mobile. No more sitting about in front of the computer in Glasgow with nothing better to do with my spare time. I'm leaving for pastures new and a lifestyle change. The trad revival 09 has been great, there is definitely more of that to come in the future. I have a growing list of trad goals to come back for but for now, I'm off to get strong (provided this bloody elbow doesn't stay like this forever) and fitter than I have ever been. I am so psyched!

Psyched out me face!

On the road to somewhere steep and bolted

UK Competition Climbing - Attitudes & Participation

2009-07-31T07:21:00.012+01:00

I do climbing competitions and I enjoy them. A short while after I started climbing, Alien Rock opened its doors in Edinburgh and not long after that held their first competitions, both for bouldering and routes. This was in the heyday of UK bouldering comps, there were loads in Scotland alone and they seemed to be much better attended. So what happened? There are less local competions obviously because of climbing wall owners spreadsheets telling them -£/$. But does that have to be the case?

In this neck of the woods there was at one point; an Alien Rock (Edinburgh) series of leading and bouldering competitions and the same at GCC (Glasgow), a Carnegie LC (Dunfermline) bouldering competition, the infamous Aberdeen garage league, probably one in Dundee that I can't remember, the Vango Scottish Bouldering league. I even have a tape somewhere with a Reporting Scotland report from the final at GCC of the "Scottish Leading League". People used to travel about and do them all. Traddies, spotty youths, the lot. In the early days I had some personal battles trying to keep up with the skinny youth in this photo.

Niall McNair at a junior comp at GCC (on the cliffhanger wall!!!!) c1995? (Photo: Niall McNair)

There were regional competitions (Vango Scottish Bouldering League vs Cumbrian Bouldering League was a big one) and a 5 round national competition (in those days the BICC). I have enjoyed competing ever since and have always considered it a valid and enjoyable aspect of climbing. It shouldn't be about beating everybody but rather about giving your all on the day. From there good results come and what is a better result than the feeling that you couldn't have tried any harder at something? I enjoyed my first comp and I was 2nd last but I tried hard.

Another man I grew up climbing and competing with: Ross Henighen (in the days when he trained and competed), BICC Ratho 05/06

In 2009 the British Bouldering Championships is still going strong with 51 men competing but the equivalent leading competition is in poor shape in the seniors at least. At Ratho only 10 women and 20 men chose to turn up which does not make it a very representative competition. There were more entrants at the Scottish Leading League all those years ago. Compare that to this years French Difficulty (Lead) Championship where 91 men and 79 women competed after coming through Departmental and Regional qualification rounds (there is also a French Cup, and several Open Competitions in France). The high participation numbers make the competitions better for the competitors, more worthwhile for the organisers and the results more representative of who are the best (competition) climbers in the country. Difficulty competitions can be slow but this is got around through good organistaion and planning. For instance the French have multiple qualifying routes set to the same difficulty to make the competition run faster.

After every BLCC the forums are full of rubbish about the results. Things along the lines of " I can't believe Alan is on the British Team" or "came 4th." "He's rubbish can't even boulder v12 or do a 1 armer, I would have beaten him". Well I'd be happy if you did come and beat me but you have to be in it to win it and really the only valid way of claiming to be a better competitor is by competing. I am more than aware of how good or bad a climber I am, i don't enter to massage my ego, I do it for fun and I wish more people would too. For a start everybody who enters the BBC is more than capable of pulling hard in a routes competition. Being strong is more helpful than being super fit. So boulderers, come along.

Me climbing outside, on plastic BLCC Blackpool 08

Obviously the general attitude to climbing is different in France with sport-climbing being the norm and participation numbers higher. But contrary to what some might believe sport-climbing in its self is no more competitive than trad climbing (indeed I'd argue that there is nothing more competitive than UK trad-climbing) and the people out at the crags in France are not all trying to get one up on each other. They are out to have fun through climbing just like the queues at Stanage. Yet they still see the value in having a shot at the national championships. Brits and French have similar levels of national pride but in France that is represented by having a go at the national competition no matter where you might come whereas here it is seen as un-British to compete in the first place. Indeed it is so un-British that the governing body responsible for competitions, the BMC, has a clause saying it cannot promote competition climbing!

Now I prefer outdoor climbing to indoors 100 times over and I climb indoors and out for my own enjoyment but it is only human to be a bit competitive and it is fun to come and test yourself against other cimbers and a difficult route on a set day. You learn so much about your climbing and really it doesn't matter where you come at the end of the day. If your ego takes a bashing, you'll probably come out better for it anyway. I'd urge anybody and of any age to give the BLCC a go next year. It's great fun honest. All I ever hear is "I'm not strong enough" etc. Even if you aren't strong enough to get to the top you can still try with all you have. And that is what it is all about.

I'm trying hard and going nowhere. IFSC World Cup, Bern 08

Welsh Tapas

2009-07-27T09:09:00.013+01:00

After the fun of the BLCCs it was good to get back to the outdoor action. So on Monday Neil McGeachy and I began a journey south, with no real direction except to hook up with Neil Busby, Jonny Stocking and Paul Williamson and avoid the bad weather as much as possible.

After a late start McGeek and I met up with the others who had decided on a trip to the fabulous Chapel Head. We had planned a week of trad, so we thought why not start with Android E4 5c which the guide describes as one of the best Limestone trad pitches in the country! (The guide writers obviously haven't been to Limekilns.) Distinctly average was my take on this route. A relic of a past era on a crag which has been taken over by the sport routes. Now I'm not a puritan and I think that this crag is better as a sport crag anyway so on that note we opted for a couple of sport routes instead. Nothing too hard, just a few 7s to ease ourselves in to the week ahead.

We awoke the next day to a complete washout in the lakes and decided to head for Wales...

A Taster of Welsh Bouldering...

With drizzle lurking in the pass but keen to actually do something, I managed to motivate Paul and Jonny to come with me to Jerry's Roof to save the day with a bit of bouldering. The Neils however were both more interested in relaxing back at the digs and heading to the pub.

Paul Willianson trying Jerry's Roof V9

I've not done a lot of bouldering in North Wales but I knew exactly what I wanted to try. Having done Jerry's Roof before Bus Stop V9 was on the hit list. I haven't bouldered in ages, nor have i bagged many V9s, so it was great to actually get this done. I definitely need to address my weak bouldering skills though if I want to improve my climbing. This is definitely going to be high on the agenda when the elbow is back to 100%.

Paul bears down

As for the youths, well Jonny totally burned me off, sending Bus Stop in only a few tries which was very inspiring. Paul was finding it hard with his reach disadvantage but I'm sure with a little more work it will go for him too.

and of Welsh Sport....

The fabulous LPT: Me vs Statement of Youth 8a

With heavy rain the following day in the pass we decided to head towards the coast to see what was doing. Everybody was keen for some sport at LPT and as I am a big fan of the place, there were no protests on my part. LPT was in great nick and sporting some lovely new bolts which was brilliant. (Well done folks.)

The scene of many a personal epic the last few moves of Statement of Youth 8a

LPT is home to one of my 2 UK nemeses, Statement of Youth. Nemesis status was achieved due to the fact I have fallen from the last hard move at the top of this route on over 10 occasions. The frustrating thing is that this is an essential UK sport tick and I really needed to add it to my list. So, I opted for yet another attempt on the off chance that today might be the day. It was! After a warm up putting in the clips and familiarising myself with the horrible closing sequence I managed to bag it first go (this time, nth in total). I very nearly dropped it yet again but somehow summoned some extra grip strength from somewhere to finally lay this one to rest. Only the dreaded Connect 4 remains with nemesis status for now.

Jonny Stocking hiding on his flash of Mussel Beach 8a

McGeek, Jonny and Paul had opted for Mussel Beach 8a. For Jonny this was a path, he flashed it without even breaking sweat but for the others it was proving a sterner test. Meanwhile Buzz marked a return to sport climbing form with an efficient send of I've Been a Bad Bad Boy one of the best 7c(+)s in the UK, but a sandbag at 7c. This was good to see and I'm sure he will only go from strength to strength from here. Inspiration was on hand when fellow PodSacs man, Pete Robbins turned up to work on Liquid Ambar 8c/+ which looks amazing. That is now 2nd top of my "to-try at LPT list" after The Walking Mussel 8b+ which was being attempted by another Welsh wad in the form of Sam Cattell. I'm hoping with the injury fading and a good season of sport-climbing coming up that these routes will enter the realms of possibility for me.

"The Crime Lord" or is it McGeek contemplating the redpoint of Mussel Beach

With Jonny now trying Melancholie 8b, I had to make a decision on what to try next. As I'm only just easing my elbow back in to hard climbing I decided I'd rather just try another 8a and Over the Moon Direct 8a was well chalked and looked fun. I fought my way through the lower bulge of this only to fall fumbling a move to a crozzly pocket. It turns out a good rest follows just after this. I'm pretty sure I would have got the onsight had I made that move. Hey ho, can't complain at getting the route second go but it would have been great to get my first onsight of a UK 8a.

Jonny made light work of the first boulder problem on Melancholie 8b

and of Welsh Trad...

So far the trad plan wasn't really happening and with the Pass still soaking we all headed for Gogarth the next day. We were in luck, the sun was out and conditions were good. A team ascent of Positron E5 5c, 6a, 6a, (5c) was planned. McGeek and I headed off first with a battle of Paper, Rock, Scissors to decide who was to get first lead. McGeek won and I was very jealous when it came to the incredible pitch 3! Wish we had the camera.

My pitches were pretty disappointing. Pitch 2 had one tricky move then mostly followed a horrible crumbly corner, Jonny who got this pitch too agreed that it was a bit of a let down given the reputation this route has. However when I turned the corner from the belay of pitch 2 to second the 3rd pitch I discovered what everyone raves about. Pitch 3 has the line, the position and the great rock (apart from the choss filled corner that makes up the last few feet). I then had the alarming experience of the 4th pitch which tops out onto a loose heather rock and mud bank. Definitely not my scene! Overall Positron was a good day out but I'm definitely more of an outcrops/mountain man personally.

With everyone shattered the next day I did well to persuade Buzz to give me a belay on Cockblock E5 6b in the now sunny but seeping Llanberis Pass. This is a brilliant route with a fierce reputation. I was therefore pleased to onsight it without any real difficulty and was chomping at the bit to get some more Pass trad in, but everyone was more keen for the cinema so I had to concede. The 2 tied in however as we went from the sexual obscenity of Redhead to that of Sacha Baron-Cohen. Funky-Zeit!

Buzz thoroughly enjoying Resurrection E4 6a

The next and final day was to be a split between the Cromlech and LPT. Paul stayed close to the road and very nearly sent Jerry's Roof (next time mate!) while I went up with Buzz to finally climb on one of the country's most famous crags. It did not disappoint in terms of quality but the crowds were intolerable and by the time Buzz's turn had come round for Resurrection E4 6a it was getting pretty late. All I wanted to get on was Right Wall but the seepage seemed a bit much and I opted to just climb at LPT and save it for next time.

At LPT Jonny made good progress with Melancholie and I managed to "flashpoint" if that is the right term, Over the Moon 8a but having done the direct already it is a pretty grey area in terms of ascent. Nothing much else was climbed but we left happy with our haul and all resolved to return to North Wales as soon as possible.

Buzz ending the trip by seeing what all the fuss was about on Mussel Beach

Margins of error!

2009-07-20T07:42:00.005+01:00

A Baw Hair Away...

Martin Hopkins, the father of the very talented young Eleanor, who will be a star of the future if she keeps progressing at the rate she is, sent me through this photo sequence he got of me on the BLCC final route. I've never had a chance to see my mistakes in such detail. This move involved a long throw from a good hold to a little jug just under the final roof. At this point I was feeling really good, not pumped and pretty confident about the moves that lay ahead in the roof, which looked very doable and similar to those that I have done before up there. I had not given this move much thought when reading the route. It looked like a simple reach yet 3 of the 6 finalist fell here. All 3 of us made one crucial mistake - using the high foothold on the volume which removed the possibility of a proper dynamic throw. It is so frustrating knowing what I know now. I threw away that podium place big time!

Mistake 1: High foothold compromises leverage meaning you have to generate all the momentum from the arms.

Upward movement is generated but now the right arm is doing all the work

Despite all that just how close is this! The next holds are good, get them and you should get at least 4 moves higher

Another bail out for another year. Just look at that hold on the bottom of the green volume Cassidy!

Comp Climbing Revival

2009-07-19T18:32:00.005+01:00

Well, after resolving not to compete in this year's BLCC after deciding that the injuries and lack of specific training would make it a bit of a disappointment it was a bit of a surprise for me and a few other people that I rocked up at Ratho at 8.30 this morning to sign up for a place in the competition.

Yesterday while ripping out part of my mum's kitchen after a trad expedition was called off, I started thinking about the comp and realised that I would actually miss doing it. Ever since getting 3rd at Blackpool 2 years ago, I've put too much pressure on myself at national comps. I guess I was wanting to taste the success again but the self imposed pressure never seemed to help.

Getting in the zone. The tunes helped.

"BUT", I thought, "it's the taking part that counts and I think I do actually enjoy them, so what harm in a wee punt?" So I arranged a lift through with G61s other/true climbing superstar Nat Berry and an early night was had (to compensate my usual 5 am insomnia).

The Big Day
(My typical form at these things in red, today in green)

Route 1: "The Easy One" - this route should really be topped out if you are going to do well. it is typically in the range of 7b+ to 7c and is normally the sort of thing I would onsight in a training session. Normal Cassidy comp performance = Fall just short of the belay for some stupid reason. Today = comfortable cruise to the top (with admittedly a wee bit of a pump). Ranking: 1st equal

Route 2: "The Hard One" - this route is usually the hardest of the day. The route-setters will tell you its 7c+ but usually its really much harder, maybe in the 8a+ bracket. Normal Cassidy performance = a valiant battle to make up for porr performance on route 1, may or may not allow the final to be scraped into. Today = steady away to the top of the route, not particularly pumped and felt the top was on the cards. I clipped the last quickdraw from a marginal kneebar in the top roof of the Ratho comp wall only for my trouser leg to slip at the last minute spilling me off. Ranking: 3rd (only needed to touch the next hold for a split second to maintain equal 1st)

Making good progress up Qualifier 2. I fell up at the big brown blob in the top left of this photo

Route 3: "The Final" - Normal Cassidy performance = I'm not that often in the final but when I do make it is a case of going all guns blazing and messing up somewhere along the line and being very frustrated. Typically it is easier than route 2 and this can be a little frustrating sometimes (E.g I topped the final 2 years ago but the system of count back to the qualifying routes meant I could only finish 3rd). Today = not really that hard, but very well set. A hard move at mid height which 3 of us messed up by using a foothold that was too high separated the finalists effectively. I dropped one place but still got my second best BLCC placing ever. Ranking: 4th

Feeling good at this stage on the final route

I could look at today and think I threw away a podium place in the final and I can't deny I am a little frustrated because it was there for the taking today. But I'm actually just buzzing. I learned so much about the mental side of competition climbing today, my own motivations and what works. I can't complain. Finishing 4th after less than 10 days of indoor climbing in the last 5 months and being far from my best shape. Of course being 4th at an under attended event does not mean I'm totally amazing or anything, but you have to be in it to win it! I'd love to see these events more popular at least as much as popular as the BBCs (why do none of those guys do the BLCCs, they are so much stronger than us lot!) and I might write a wee piece about competitions in general in the near future.

Well done to Jonny Stocking and Nat Berry who are really dominating in their categories. It is great to see them and the other Scottish juniors doing so well!

For now though I'm totally buzzing...role on 2010!

In the hot seat waiting to give it some!

For the full results see the BMC web pages

Back to the Pass

2009-07-17T08:42:00.010+01:00

A return trip to the Pass of Ballater came about even quicker than I had expected when Stu and I left last Thursday for 3 days of trad "revivalry". Day 1 & 2 were to be a return to the Pass of Ballater as we were both so psyched by our last trip and it tied in well with meeting up with another party and chuffing in to Shelterstone Crag Friday night for some big mountain action on the Saturday.

Pass of Ballater (Western Section Upper Tier)

Leaving Glasgow on Thursday, guidebook open on the way up, over ambitious plans were hatched for ticking off all the remaining E5s/6s I had still to do. Arriving later than expected and starting on the West Butress where I had no E5/6s left, meant that it was a little too tall an order. In any case a lot of fun was had.

Cobes concentrating hard low down on Ton Ton Macoute E5 6b

After following me for a warm-up on the brilliant but polished Pretzel Logic E3 5c I convinced Stu that Ton Ton Macoute E5 6b was the perfect route for him to get back his head for harder stuff which had been a little shaky ever since the Cambu episode. He duly dispatched and the confidence meter rose instantly. He then went on to make quick ascents of the Western Section's best 2 routes Peel's Wall and Smith's Arete at E4 and E5 respectively. For my part I had some fun doing 2 unusual trad routes which amounted to little more than hard boulder problems on a rope both at E4 6b. The grading is kind of irrelevant. Simply, short, fierce and absolutely brilliant.

The man the myth after refinding his E5 head

After Stu had done his thing there was still time for me to go for an E6 6a I had been eye-ing up a few days before. Drambo climbs a short (12m) smooth wall with a lovely slim, flat, layback corner near the top. The only gear is just under 1/2 height and consists of 2 small RPs which I'd happily lower off but I'm not sure about taking a winger onto. For the last few moves these become little more than a psychological help anyway. After reversing from the start of the crux twice while I figured out how to do the sneaky crux pulls, I finally twigged the combination of a good heelhook and small sidepull that allowed a good jug to be grasped just below the slim corner. These turned out to be the only moves really worthy of 6a and I romped for home enjoying every run-out moment. The climbing and the rock here is so good!

Stoned Immaculate E5 6a, Drambo E6 6a, one of the highlights of the trip climbs the wall to the right

Day 2 promised more of the same, starting with the lovely but escapable wee arete next to Drambo, Stoned Immaculate E5 6a, moving on to Hot Temper E5 6b, the direct finish to cold rage and the hardest of the Ballater E5s I had done (up to then at least). I then had eyes for a very short 10m E6 called Private Parts. The crux of this is low but requires trust in an old peg. It took me a few goes to commit to the crux move but finally, when I went for it, all was fine and I was soon sat at the top taking in the surprise of yet another E6 onsighted. I could get used to this!

There is an enticing line just to the right of Private Parts which goes at E5 6c which having had so much success, I thought would be another good wee tick. "Ok, so its 6c," I thought, "but I've onsighted 6c moves" and there didn't look to be much 6c in the route's short length which consisted mostly of a line of jugs and bomber gear placements up to a blank little section just shy of the top at 8 or 9m. "No problem!" And so began an hour of going up and down, up and down, finally committing and falling off, then falling some more then giving-up and ab-ing for the gear. I'm still not sure of the way, but I will find it, I can't let this go....

Anyway we were short of time, we had to drive to Aviemore for a complete change in the character, aspect and logistics of the weekend. To be continued...

Great Scottish Venues Part 2...

2009-07-07T17:27:00.006+01:00

Pass of Ballater:

Following on from my post about how great Glen Nevis is I thought I'd "big-up" another climbing area with a distinctly Alpine ambiance, the Pass of Ballater. Cobes and I opted to head NE to escape the showers and hit another venue so as to widen the horizons of the trad-revival still further. Incidentally Cobes is the only member of the original team of trad-revivalists still about after Will left us for Glastonbury and some wee bouldering competition and Nic Dabeast had a really unfortunate episode involving an E6, the ground, a hospital and a broken back. Yikes! Get well soon Nic.

Pass of Ballater is the Queen's local crag when she is holidaying in Balmoral and it's safe to say it is a great wee place to climb. The crag consists of various small buttresses of granite spread across a hillside and possesses striking lines such the amazing Smith's Arete a line that stands out from the car park.

This was Cobes' first visit so he had to get on the classics Anger and Lust E2 and Cold Rage E4 which are possibly the usual starting points for those up to that standard. However there are fabulous 3*** challenges at almost every grade up to E5. I had done both these before so was happy to let Cobes struggle away where I had once struggled before. There was no real struggle other than waiting for the rock to dry out after a heavy downpour.

I wanted to get a few more E5s in and opted first for Distemper which was a great E5 6b with a short bouldery crux which was ever so slightly committing but above good gear. I timed it well as the rain we were trying to escape suddenly appeared just as I topped out. This led to a long delay that swallowed up most of our time and meant we couldn't make as much of an impact on the crag as we had hoped. I did however manage to squeeze in time for Demon Drink a great face climb at E5 6b which could have come straight off of Stanage was it not for the fact it is granite. I will be getting back there soon for sure.

Sizing up, then going for the crux of Distemper E5 6b

Trad Revival roles on and on....

2009-07-06T08:27:00.007+01:00

Part 5 (ish) - A Tale of 2 Glens

With all the trad action and hearing of Mike Tweedly and Dave Redpath's exploits on Dalriada I was keen to go and add this iconic route to my ticklist, hopefully onsight. With that in mind I headed up the Cobbler with Cobra to find it shrouded in cloud. Visibility was under 10m and the rock was damp to say the least. After the beastly slog and horribly wet feet we were struggling for motivation, but to save the day we eventually managed to haul our lazy asses up to the High Crag in Glen Croe.

Stu Lyall/Cobra a lynchpin in the trad revival 09 strapping in at Glen Croe. Stu wears: T-shirt by Rambo and chalk bag by Cassin

This turned out to be a great decision. After a warm-up on the stunningly positioned and less than well protected Edge of Insanity E4 5c, I decided to make an attempt on Maribou Stork Nightmares E6 6b. This is a slightly unobvious line but has good moves and I have always wanted to do it ever since seeing a wee photo of Stork on the FA in an old copy of On The Edge. I don't know why exactly, as its not a "great line" but sometimes we get motivated by the strangest things. Anyway I managed to onsight the route which got me keen to try the true line of that part of the wall, Dave Mac's Love Buzz E7 6b. I contemplated just going for it but chickened out thinking I'd save it for the next visit.

A couple of days later....

Dave Redpath and I headed up to Glen Nevis to scope out some E7s. After making a last minute call on midge conditions we opted for Buzzard Crag. This is a brilliant buttress which has one of my favourite trad routes on it, The Monster E5 6a, and a pair of top E6s The Handren Effect (which I've done) and Excocet (which I haven't). We had our eye on the striking line of Liminality.

As mentioned before Glen Nevis is amazing!

It was hot, very hot and humid and this seemed to contribute to a general lack of ability to climb the route on TR. After finally figuring out the complex combination of slaps, heel hooks and useless holds I managed to link it enough to think I could do it. But in the full 30 degree sun and without the trio of pegs that used to protect the route it was definitely the sensible option to have a nap. So I did.

The Juggernaut face at Buzzard Crag, chalked and ready to go...

In that time Dave has set up a TR on Dave Mac's Juggernaut E7 6b, which is probably the line of the crag despite not being as obvious as the arete of Liminality. The route powers up the central steep face of the crag up a beautiful orange and black wall with just enough holds and gear to make it fun but not too serious proposition. When we arrived that morning Blair Fyffe and friend had been on it on TR so it was enticingly chalked. They had left not long after things had got too hot but Dave and I, having come so far had to keep trying something.

With a fuzzy head from my nap I let Dave go first. It came down to a very long move at the start of the crux which for him was a massive reach. I was aware of Blair struggling with this move too and so when it came to my turn I was apprehensive. As it turned out my extra span made all the difference and I was soon lowering off having to make a big decision, to go for it in the heat or save it for another day. By this point it almost seemed to be cooling down, (almost) and I thought to myself "am I really going to be back here anytime soon? This would be great route to tick, you know you can do it, just go for it!".

So, i nervously tied on, prepared my rack and set off. I deployed about 1/2 a tonne of chalk as i sweated my way upwards. The crux went well and I only woke up from a trance like state of executing the moves when I arrived at the mossy top out. I now see the beauty of headpointing hard trad. There is a real incredible range of moods and states of awareness that you go through at different points in the prep, the climb and the aftermath. I was buzzing all the way back to Glasgow planning a return to experience it all again on Lovebuzz the next day.

King Cobra on the Edge of Insanity putting the infamous "Cobra Heel" to good use. He has no gear cause he decided to kick it all out

(photo: Ben Litster)

So a team of Cobra, Ben Litster and I headed up to Glen Croe. I had already opted for a quick TR of Love Buzz instead of just going for it as planned the previous night. A wise choice as I fell off the start a couple of times trying to figure which little schist ripples were holds and which weren't. Once solved however the route felt none too hard and was dispatched pronto. Stu opted for the Edge of Insanity which was a hairy belay for me when he kicked out his only runner at the crux, but all was well and Ben got some lovely shots for posterity.

On the crux of Love Buzz E7, loving my shiny new PodSacs T-shirt (plug, plug) (Photo: Ben Litster)

Ben (see his blog for more) and I then addressed the main issue at Glen Croe. The Fugue, Dave Mac's unrepeated E9, dominates the crag and is high on my attempt-list if not the full ticklist. We both flashed up to the crux no problem and were stumped only by one move and lack of time. I'm keen to return to unlock the problem and see if I can get it wired enough. But this route is extremely serious. The crux move is in a horrible no fall zone and at the moment seems all a bit low percentage to contemplate but we'll see, with a bit more time it might come together... but I don't have much time as Spanish sport-climbing is calling me and the trad revival can't hang about for one route, even if it is a glory tick.

Descending after a good evening of sends. Love Buzz is the obvious arete on the left side and The Fugue is bang up the middle

Trad Revival 09 - Part 4

2009-07-02T07:39:00.005+01:00

Out and about....
With the trad revival in full swing I took the opportunity to get down South and experience some Limestone trad with Will and Nic Dabeast.

On the way down to meet Will in Sheffield, Nic and I stopped off at Gordale. This incredible Limestone edifice has some of my favourite UK sport routes but I have always meant to go and do the Cave routes and some of the adventure classics, in particular Delivertoad and Deliverance. After a quick warm-up and an adventure up onto Defcon 3 (7c+) which it turns out has lost holds near the top, I jumped on Cave Route RH (E6 6b) which was dispatched onsight. However this is a really weird one. I'm not sure I like the fact that the route is almost entirely a clip-up (very old pegs, threads and 3 brand new bolts). It doesn't really know what it wants to be. It would be climbable entirely on trad but then it would probably get even dirtier than it already is. It would be a brilliant 7b+ sport route and in keeping with the rest of the wall.

I know its heresy, especially in the middle of my trad revival but I think it should be retro-bolted, I really don't see the difference other than in danger between unsightly tat, rotting pegs and a few discreetly placed but bomber glue in bolts. I'm not calling for the mass retro-bolting of the UK but sometimes I do wonder what the point of some so called "ethics" are. The route has always had fixed gear, the fixed gear is getting worse (apart from the 3 bolts which were replaced) but is also entirely climbable on natural gear but nobody as far as I know does so(might bump it to E7?)..... Good route but feels weird. Afterwards I racked up below Delivertoad only for the heavens to open and that was that.

The next stop was High Tor, somewhere I've wanted to go for years but never have. High Tor has a big reputation as being the best Trad Limestone crag in the Peak etc. and did not disappoint. Our attentions were focused on the right wall and I had a big ticklist in mind. Unfortunately the boiling summer temperature made everything that little bit more extreme but in spite of this I onsighted or flashed all but 2 of the routes I had hoped to do (I didn't get on the other 2 so a future trip is definitely on the cards).

Day 1 saw an onsight warm-up on Tales of Yankee Power which is a stunning, run out E5 on Céuse-esque pockets and definitely not a good warm up. After a nap in the blazing sun it was Supersonic an absolute classic E5 with a brilliant and unlikely top section. Later after watching will valiantly run it out on Reproduction in high 20s heat, I went for the flash and happily succeeded. This was much more like E6 than Cave RH and not a bolt in sight. Brilliant 4**** day on brilliant 4**** trad routes.

Will takes on Reproduction E6 6b, in far from good conditions

Day 2 and a return to High Tor. Will and Nic were both keen to get Reproduction so after I lead the uber-classic Flaky Wall E4 and team seconds they went for it. In the cool morning shade Will dispatched and in true Will style proceeded to anounce that it was piss and not E6. He's a bit like Richie Patterson, in having only 3 grades, Piss, Brick and Impossible. (It is definaetly E6!). Nic had the short straw and had to set off just as the sun was coming round. After a few "moments" it was in the bag for him too. With the sun blazing hard and an Ice Cream more appealing than the remaining 2 routes on the ticklist (Castellan, and Bastille) we made a hasty retreat back to Glasgow a happy bunch and with a return trip already formulating.

Glen Nevis - Simply Sublime

2009-07-01T13:33:00.006+01:00

Glen Nevis (Simply the best outcrop trad climbing & more)

I love Glen Nevis! In my opinion it is the best trad climbing venue I have been to in the UK (so far). It has easily as much rock as the Llanberis Pass but is less worked out and importantly far fewer people, the scenery is immense and the beautiful seasonal variations are sublime. It is also a year round venue with great bouldering (extensive development potential) stonking trad including some of the hardest routes put up by the most prolific first ascensionists of Scottish Trad Climbing (Cuthbertson, Macleod, Hamilton, Latter, Howett etc...) and a smattering of superb sport routes including one of the best 8bs in the whole of the UK (FACT!).

Sending temps in Glen Nevis

You can be swimming in the summer between routes, climbing in beautiful autumnal light, bouldering in the winter sun with 3 feet of snow all around you or taking advantage of good cool spring days before the midges and foliage get too dense.

Current favourite boulder project, Deep Breath 8A

I think the trilogy of Llanberis/Borrowdale/Glen Nevis all have a very similar vibe and I'd love to see Glen Nevis more widely appreciated. It seems like a lot of the harder trad climbing in Scotland is quite neglected meaning you can turn up and be a little uninspired when your line is a wee bit dirty. A brush and some traffic and the lines reveal there impeccable quality. The number of people capable of climbing these lines is ever growing but the number doing so seems to be decreasing due to the convenience of Dumbarton boulder problems, the climbing wall etc. Plenty of people go to Wave Buttress but why not try some of the others?

Onsighting Freddy Across the Mersey E5 6a on Wave Buttress on a very hot June day (Photo: Stew Brown)

Get up there (though not all at once, eh!)

Trad Revival 09 - Part 3

2009-06-30T06:58:00.005+01:00

Auch-in-star-ry where E5 is for real men!

Stepping out on Surface Tension

Carrying on the theme of central belt esoterica, I finally had to pay a serious visit to Auchinstarry to at least do the classic E5s there. I was actually pleasently surprised, the climbing is absorbing and great fun was had over several visits.

First on the list was the hard-but-safe Carouselambra which disappointingly required a few attempts to commit to th crux. I can't quite believe that I can onsight 8a+ on tufas and struggle so much with a wee dolerite E5 but the struggle made the route all the sweeter and I'm not going to cry about it. Although it felt easy when I actually just went for it!

Next on the hitlist was Death is the Hunter which is definately E5 6c in my book I don't really see the point in the side runner used by some. I took 2 attempts to climb the lower slab which is a wonderful boulder problem on its own right, like something taken off of Stanage and sanded down until all the grit came off.

Great reflection from the pool below Surface Tension. But what lies beneath?

I then had to turn my attention to Surface Tension the E5 6b coming straight out of the pool. It needed a brush so I abbed down and cleaned the holds and realised that I wasn't a brave enough man for the onsight. I could not resolve in my head falling into the pool from 15m and getting eaten by a carp or a shopping trolley. After a couple of TRs I returned a few days later with Nic and Will to go for the lead. Although it all went fine I can't help but think that this is pretty hard for E5. An onsight leader has to have a very good head and read the sequence well to avoid a long slide down the slab in the hope that the little gear there is (a bendy peg at 6m and a few wires at 12m) keeps them out the water. Felt more like E6 but what do I know, I'm a big wuss!

More views of Surface Tension E5 6b

Last on the list was Nijinski the most striking line at the Starry and something I had been rescued from a few years previously. Having already been rescued I felt a TR would do no harm and the route was duly dispatched solo afterwards. Again i don't really see how this route can be E5. The climbing is not hard but is insecure and comitting, it is a solo because the gear used by some is completely useless, the crux is about 12m off the ground and a fall just isn't going to be pretty. For me E5 6a doesn't give an impression of the seriousness of this route E6 6a says I. I'd be interested to hear what others think.

Getting to the point of no return on Nijinski E5 6a!

Nic Duboust is 2nd-ing an eliminate called Promontory Runner and trying not to get in the way.

Having survived Nijinski and with my soloing head on it was time for Blade Runner Direct which I soloed too. This is a worthy E5 as well and is perhaps better that the original version in my opinion.

I really like Auchinstarry strangely, and I have enjoyed soloing Promontory Direct and various other routes on the front face. And as for Red Lead...WOW that is amazing! If you have the balls, solo it. It feels so out there for a VS. I can imagine that to the VS leader this is quite simply one of the best routes within easy access of Glasgow.

Trad Revival 09 - Part 2

2009-06-29T08:24:00.004+01:00

The Elgin Marbles - Limekilns

The next venue on the esoteric central belt ticklist was Limekilns. I had always thought that this was going to be a crap venue so when I got there and discovered 2 blocs of great limestone in a lovely wee setting I was pleasantly surprised.

Strang Yoof Frae Fife, Ally Swinton, Fights the Iron Fist E5 6b

I had heard about the infamous Iron Fist and decided to jump straight up to the plate, no messing about. BAD MOVE! I was swallowed up whole by this evil crack, and battered and bruised I retreated twice before succeeding. The other routes have all gone alot more smoothly and there is really only one thing on my mind now... a return for Slow Hand Clap. This is a gnarly MacLeod E7 (which seems more E8-ish to us mortal folk). Will and I recently summoned up the courage for a return visit only to find the tree below the route broken into a huge spike directly in the landing zone and ready to impail you should you fall. A fall didn't really bear thinking about in the first place and this tipped the scales in favour of bouldering at Ratho. But the route wont leave my thoughts and I'm going to have to return soon.

Unfortunately since we started going to Limekilns access issues have flared up. It is really a shame as this is a great venue for climbing and brings trade to the village shops in Limekilns and Charleston and provides great entertainment to lots of people. Climbers impacts seems small to me. I have noticed very little litter or noise when I have been there. I hope the situation can be resolved amicably.

For more on this: http://forums.scottishclimbs.com/index.php/topic,5614.msg39026/topicseen.html#new

Trad Revival 09

2009-06-26T15:40:00.010+01:00

I decided to scrap the previous posts and start afresh with the blog. Lets see if I can make it a bit more interesting and keep it a bit more regularly updated from now on.

Anyway, I've been suffering from longterm injury woes and the financial crisis and was losing all my psyche for training and hard climbing and needed a little something different to rekindle my enthusiasm. Happily I found it in an unusual source, central belt trad and trad in general. I'll kick off the new blog with tales that were meant never to be told.

CAMBU CLUB - "1st rule: What Happens at Cambu stays at Cambu"

"Cambu is $£%&-ing Awesome"

The trad revival was kick started at Cambusbarron, (aka a horrible, dark, damp dolerite quarry to some) near Stirling, the home of some seriously hard-for-the-grade routes. However the routes are amazing and deserve alot more attention. Regular traffic and a brush to a few of the lines would make this place alot more friendly. After sending the crag classics; Power of Endurance, Quantum Grunt, Big Country Dreams, Both Ends Burning (I had done Purr Blind Doomster years before) I decided it was time to attempt my first onsight E6 (in the last 6 years anyway).

Anabolic Steroids is an absolutely brillaint route and should be on any Scottish trad climber's ticklist (or at least central belt climbers). It features a hard starting crack with hard to place gear followed by a "continetal rest" (trying not to give too much away) into a brilliant but safe upper crack systm. I was dissapointed to blow the onsight low down after failing to commit to pulling on a wet hold. Got it next go and wish I had waited on the conditions.

Cobes sets off on his fateful mission with Anabolic Steroids E6 6b

Keen for more we returned a few days later to get shutdown in fine style. Will had a nightmare, I got spanked by a slimey and hard Anger Management (E5 my arse) and Cobra came as close to an ambulance ride home. We haven't been back, but vengence must be had!

Anger Management a deceptively hard E6 (IMHO)

Anyway, get down there its good but don't expect an easy tick and take care, there are evil tree badgers willing you to fall off!